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Travel

Kahama AIDS Tour

“Live, Dance and, above all, Respect yourself; Cause when all is gone, all you got is health.”

If you had 7000 HIV tests, how would you go about raising public awareness so that people would want to take them in rural Africa?

The NGO, GUTz, came up with the innovative solution of throwing music concerts to attract locals to test sites, linking up with famous musicians to create a festive environment.

Across the span of 4 days, we hit up rural villages deep into the interior of Tanzania, south of Lake Victoria, in the Shinyanga and Kahama region.

Located at the bottom of the image

This is a part of the country so remote that even Tanzanians don’t visit, so you really get a feel for the village culture.

How did we get around? Sometimes by motorcycle, which is a common method of transportation in most any developing nation. You just stand by the road and hail a cyclist, like you would a taxi. And off you go.

Other times we rolled by Land Cruiser.

We packed round 5 makeshift canopies and placed them on top of our vehicle, then would set up shop each morning, each day at a different site.

It is estimated that around 7% of the Tanzanian population (aged 15-49) is HIV-positive so it is dire to educate these individuals, especially in the rural communities, about the virus. Tanzanian beliefs regarding health are often shrouded in folklore and shamanism, however, which presents an imposing challenge to creating change.

Lines for testing

One of the interesting things about traveling to remote areas is that they could be steeped in thousands-of-year-old beliefs and traditions yet still have Coke and beer available at every corner shop, which is sometimes just a wooden frame.

In our ever globalizing world, consumerism travels faster than education unfortunately, for it really takes effort to educate a poor, rural region when there is no profit incentive to do so.

So the children get cavities instead.

My role on the team was to help GUTz document activities alongside my filmmaker, Ben. Regarding the kids here, they sometimes greet you suspiciously…

While other times with a fist bump.

But this is the reason why some people are driven to venture far out to remote regions and countries to do community work. At the end of the day, there’s a void to how much happiness can be bought.

To gain a clearer sense of purpose and conviction, at some point we have to contribute to the well being of others. If that’s to our friends and family, great. If that’s to those living thousands of miles away, that’s not too bad either. For its interactions like these that will instill in the next generation less bigotry and hate.

So I’d like to encourage all nomads out there. Always remember you’re a representative of your country and ethnicity. I don’t mean that as a matter of pride — what I mean is that your actions carry greater weight than what you do as an individual. Treat others well and greet them with a smile. That gesture will carry itself forward.

And, above all, as long as we still got our health, let’s keep it moving.

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Travel

Mahaba Beach: A Tale of Beachboys, Fishermen, and Tribal Elements

“From beachboys to skaters, nomads to surfers, we follow the sentiments of the seasons as our freedoms guide us; our expressions define us.

It’s not that we don’t care, it’s we realize these times are rare. So let’s grab a drink, not think, and do as we dare.”

In Tanzania, a beachboy is the derogatory term for a young man who has no plans for his future and spends his nights drinking away. Due to their nature, they’re often found at the beach. Due to my nature, I often encounter them. Very few are nefarious in nature, they’re akin to the skating culture of the west coast — those individuals who aren’t living life in a hurry, wake up with eyes blurry, and their last thought is no worry. Nomads in their own right, they live how it is and live for the night.

In My 20s
From Left: Benja and Dudubuya, two popular rappers in the Tanzanian circuit. RIP to the Man on the Right

Encapsulating these elements off of eastern Tanzania, you’ll also encounter Maasai tribesman, often hired as security guards for bars, restaurants, and private homes. You can immediately tell they are Maasai by the way they’re dressed. As the only ethnic tribe in Tanzania who still dress in traditional garb, they are easy to spot and a fascination for western tourists.

Unlike the extroverted and rap-lauding beachboys, the Maasai are more placid in nature and stick to their roots. Many cannot speak English as fluently as the beachboys, who frequent Zanzibar Island and the shores off the eastcoast of Tanzania.

I first traveled to Mahaba Beach in my mid-2os, as we’d frequently throw parties here. The owner is a local Tanzanian and his wife is from Europe. In terms of hospitality, I am very partial to the owners here because they understand intuitively why nomads travel to Africa, many of whom embrace the local rasta culture.

Owner on the Left

I am very appreciative to Mama Bea, as we call her, because she radiates warmth and offers my students free rein to chill at her beach on field trips.

I co-founded a nonprofit preschool in Tanzania a few years ago and now we have over forty students. And, as any kid, who wants to stay indoors all day?

In terms of location, Mahaba beach is directly across from Zanzibar Island, and you can hire a private boat to take you to and fro Zanzibar if you’re up for it.

When I traveled back to this area in my 30’s, I came with a different mindset, as I was more interested in learning about the local culture here since there are several villages that dot around the region. They make their money from weaving fish baskets (as pictured below) and from fishing.

Seeing as how so few foreigners traverse these village areas, I set out to make a short documentary about the lives of these fishermen. We awoke at 4AM to head out for shooting, catching the sunrise as we overcame our hangovers.

In terms of the fishermen here, they set out their traps overnight and see what they find in the morning. They have to arrive early since sometimes robbers will steal their traps.

The biggest catches here are Yellowfin Tuna and Kingfish for those using nets, while these teenagers capture smaller game from their traps.

After collecting a day’s catch, they head to the local auction to sell it, but they usually only make about $10-15 a day. Having spent several months living here, I’d frequent the auctions to buy fish. Usually a week’s supply of food would only cost me $15-20, and I was the only foreigner out here at these auctions.

They first viewed me suspiciously when my local cameraman and I were shooting videos, and some of the village elders even told the teenage fishermen I filmed that I was scamming them to make thousands of dollars off their content. They thought I came from a big foreign production company when, in reality, I was just a nomad curious about their lives.

But this is life. In my travels, people are often circumspect of my intentions and I’ve ended up in some heated situations when, at the end of the day, my curiosity is what led me to journey.

So I buy them a beer and give them a salute for, at the end of the day, life is short so let’s enjoy it.