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Travel

Mahaba Beach: A Tale of Beachboys, Fishermen, and Tribal Elements

“From beachboys to skaters, nomads to surfers, we follow the sentiments of the seasons as our freedoms guide us; our expressions define us.

It’s not that we don’t care, it’s we realize these times are rare. So let’s grab a drink, not think, and do as we dare.”

In Tanzania, a beachboy is the derogatory term for a young man who has no plans for his future and spends his nights drinking away. Due to their nature, they’re often found at the beach. Due to my nature, I often encounter them. Very few are nefarious in nature, they’re akin to the skating culture of the west coast — those individuals who aren’t living life in a hurry, wake up with eyes blurry, and their last thought is no worry. Nomads in their own right, they live how it is and live for the night.

In My 20s
From Left: Benja and Dudubuya, two popular rappers in the Tanzanian circuit. RIP to the Man on the Right

Encapsulating these elements off of eastern Tanzania, you’ll also encounter Maasai tribesman, often hired as security guards for bars, restaurants, and private homes. You can immediately tell they are Maasai by the way they’re dressed. As the only ethnic tribe in Tanzania who still dress in traditional garb, they are easy to spot and a fascination for western tourists.

Unlike the extroverted and rap-lauding beachboys, the Maasai are more placid in nature and stick to their roots. Many cannot speak English as fluently as the beachboys, who frequent Zanzibar Island and the shores off the eastcoast of Tanzania.

I first traveled to Mahaba Beach in my mid-2os, as we’d frequently throw parties here. The owner is a local Tanzanian and his wife is from Europe. In terms of hospitality, I am very partial to the owners here because they understand intuitively why nomads travel to Africa, many of whom embrace the local rasta culture.

Owner on the Left

I am very appreciative to Mama Bea, as we call her, because she radiates warmth and offers my students free rein to chill at her beach on field trips.

I co-founded a nonprofit preschool in Tanzania a few years ago and now we have over forty students. And, as any kid, who wants to stay indoors all day?

In terms of location, Mahaba beach is directly across from Zanzibar Island, and you can hire a private boat to take you to and fro Zanzibar if you’re up for it.

When I traveled back to this area in my 30’s, I came with a different mindset, as I was more interested in learning about the local culture here since there are several villages that dot around the region. They make their money from weaving fish baskets (as pictured below) and from fishing.

Seeing as how so few foreigners traverse these village areas, I set out to make a short documentary about the lives of these fishermen. We awoke at 4AM to head out for shooting, catching the sunrise as we overcame our hangovers.

In terms of the fishermen here, they set out their traps overnight and see what they find in the morning. They have to arrive early since sometimes robbers will steal their traps.

The biggest catches here are Yellowfin Tuna and Kingfish for those using nets, while these teenagers capture smaller game from their traps.

After collecting a day’s catch, they head to the local auction to sell it, but they usually only make about $10-15 a day. Having spent several months living here, I’d frequent the auctions to buy fish. Usually a week’s supply of food would only cost me $15-20, and I was the only foreigner out here at these auctions.

They first viewed me suspiciously when my local cameraman and I were shooting videos, and some of the village elders even told the teenage fishermen I filmed that I was scamming them to make thousands of dollars off their content. They thought I came from a big foreign production company when, in reality, I was just a nomad curious about their lives.

But this is life. In my travels, people are often circumspect of my intentions and I’ve ended up in some heated situations when, at the end of the day, my curiosity is what led me to journey.

So I buy them a beer and give them a salute for, at the end of the day, life is short so let’s enjoy it.

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Travel

Thailand: Digital Nomad

“As a forerunner, chase the path you’re envisioning as opposed to the steps which already exist.”

Starting in 2015, I have spent about a third of my year traversing various countries, spending about a month each in every new destination, with the remainder of my time split between Korea and Tanzania. It’s fitting that the first destination I describe is Thailand, which is ranked by many travel sites as one of the best countries for digital nomads, be it the cities of Chiang Mai, Bangkok, or Phuket.

So what is a digital nomad?

It’s an individual whose job is not location-dependent, enabling them to travel freely. The most typical professions are those in IT or other tech-related industries. As an education consultant, my path to becoming a digital nomad followed a circuitous route. I quit my job at the end of 2014 to spend a year visiting home (California) and to travel through Central America, Europe and Africa.

I enjoyed my job as an education consultant and really enjoyed living in Korea, but I could see the path ahead of me if I stayed this course: I’d eventually start my own company, buy an apartment, settle down, and pop out a few kids. Though this path is what many strive for, I felt stifled by it, as I wasn’t quite ready to give up on my greater aspirations. As someone intensely driven by adventure and purpose, I chose to quit my job to return to Tanzania to build a nonprofit school and hopefully become a writer.   

I found this path far more appealing and suitable to my taste, although my family strongly disagreed (which is natural). At heart, I think to each his own and you have to chase the path you’re trying to create rather than embracing the one that comes most natural.

That sentiment captures the ethos of a nomad and, as proponents like Elon Musk state, if we really are living in a simulation than shouldn’t we approach life as a game? In no video game do you end from where you started; the epic and tales reside in the journey. And, so it is, in my thirties I chose to journey.

As I immersed myself in my travels, the companies I used to consult for became more open to my proposal of working online. Sometimes, you need to make the leap yourself for others to believe in the concept. Other times, quite frankly, they may not have a better alternative. Either way, go in the direction you want. These companies will still likely exist in a decade whereas my youth will not.

Regarding Bangkok itself, I had no specific reason why I chose this location. I was running out of options to be honest since I had by then (2017) visited the countries I wanted to check out. Having read so much online about the digital nomad lifestyle out here though, I felt I needed to revisit it from when I first vacationed here in my early 20’s.

The best word I can use to describe my lifestyle in Thailand is comfort. Thailand’s very comfortable for foreigners to have a longer stay in. The tourism infrastructure is great for travel, the cuisine is delicious, prices are affordable, the weather is generally favorable, the locals are friendly, it’s easy to meet fellow nomads, massage therapists near every corner, and the nightlife is entertaining.  

There are several cafes and hotel lounges which offer you a great Wifi connection and a quiet atmosphere when you want to work.

Between my experiences, I’d recommend working from the city’s hotel lounges, as these spots offer a better atmosphere and less people.

I feel that locals and tourists alike have an aversion for visiting hotels they’re not staying at, which is a shame since these places offer the best views and ambience.

In Thailand, the prices are relatively affordable for a meal or drink wherever you go, and if you need to work for a few hours, the return on value is more than worth it.

I am by no means a foodie, but if there are two countries which I can strongly recommend to visit when it comes to cuisine, it’s Japan and Thailand. The former destination gets expensive while the latter is unique in that the street carts are just as good as the five-star restaurants.

Tom Yum Soup became my go-to meal by the end of my stay, and Thai food is overall delectable for its varied spices, pastes, herbs, veggies, curries, and seafood.

As Australian chef David Thompson has said, unlike other countries, Thai cooking is “about the juggling of disparate elements to create a harmonious finish.”

I feel the same way when it comes to concocting my Coconut Cocktails.

Though Thailand is becoming overwhelmed by tourism in the past decade, it’s a great introduction for anyone who’s pursuing their first steps into a digital nomad lifestyle.

Half the fun is not knowing where you’ll end up next.

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Antigua: Colonial Spain in Central America

“Named after fire, water, and earth, the volcanoes of Antigua serve a straightforward response as to the forces in control.”

Designated as a UNESCO world heritage site, the highlands of Antigua are a great gateway into Guatemala as you explore its Spanish Baroque architecture and familiarize yourself with the country. Antigua is considered by Tripadvisor, “the best-preserved Spanish colonial city in Central America,” which in itself gives one a great reason to visit.

Facade of the El Carmen Church

Contrary to expectations, there are only a little over 35,000 residents in the city, which gives any nomad an idea of how exploring the city will feel. What stands out prominently are its old colonial churches.

St. James Cathedral San Joseph Parish

Beyond its churches, the city is easy to navigate as it has a square grid given its Spanish heritage, in which conquistadors first traversed the area in the 1500s. As ominous as these invaders were, the area has a history of also being plagued by earthquakes and volcanic eruptions, which also hint at its low population figures. The last major evacuation occurred in 2018 when the volcano, Fuego, erupted.

The central park is known as the city square and is a popular area to walk, where you see both locals and tourists roam. The tourism infrastructure is well-developed here, a popular destination for cruise ships from both the Atlantic and Pacific Ocean.

For the more adventurous, Antigua is a great entry-point to explore the interior of Guatemala. If only here for a day or two, there are several jewelry and souvenir shops which offer local wares, as well as more scenic spots to roam as you take in the splendor of the city.

There are also several historic boutique hotels here in which the staff is friendly. They’re willing to provide you an upgrade to a master suite if you cordially explain to them, “I just flew in… So why not?”

Coming home to making a fire always adds warmth to a nomadic experience.

And, so it is, I’ll recommend anyone flying into Guatemala City to spend a few days checking out Antigua, which is only an hour drive away. It’s not an authentic experience in the traditional sense, but it does give you a few nights of relaxation before you check out the rest of the country and its Mayan roots.

In the meantime, you can read up on where to go next from its many perched rooftop balconies and hammocks.

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Travel

Hiking an Urban Fortress

“From highrises to urban enterprises, a touch of nature is always good for the Seoul.”

In the center of Seoul, north of the Hangang River, lies the sprawling Seoul Fortress Wall. Built in 1396, there are 8 gates total which run for near a 20-kilometer path around Seoul.

They all possess a similar aesthetic and serve as guiding posts if you’re up for a hike. If short on time, I recommend heading east of the wall and exiting Dongdaemun station so you can check out the Dongdaemun Design Plaza as well, which offers various exhibits throughout the year.

The Heunginjimun Gate is located here and rather easy to spot. From there, you follow the meandering path northward.

There are several viewpoints and cafes along the way which offer panoramic sights if you want to take a break.

The paths are leisurely and you encounter historically-renovated homes which provide you a perspective of how this area looked like decades ago. There’s also more colorful, family-run spots you can check out.

In contrast to the homogenous urban sprawl located south of the river in districts like Gangnam, these neighborhoods along the wall have much more distinct personalities.

For another Seoul Fortress trail, you can start south near Itaewon and head towards Namsan Tower.

Hiking over 500 steps to the top, you eventually reach the tower, which offers breathtaking views and is a popular spot for tourists.

Most my days I had no idea which way I was going to be honest and just followed the path my heart was set on traversing.

Though I lived in Seoul throughout my twenties, back then I wasn’t too into hiking. Going on these trails provides me a different image of Seoul, one in which history and urbanity collides. It all makes for enjoyable afternoons and I’d highly recommend checking out these trails for a day or two if you stop by Seoul.

Located nearby is also the more contemporary Cheonggyecheon stream, which is an 11-kilometer trail built in 2005.

As a massive urban renewal project, it received criticism during its construction phase for costing the government around $900 million. Today, it’s viewed as a popular destination for both locals and tourists alike, restoring what was once a polluted stream covered by concrete in the 1950s.

These walks may not cure your hangover from last night’s soju but they will offer a brief respite as you prepare yourself for another evening of Korean barbecue.

Overall, these types of revitalization efforts in Seoul have been viewed with widespread acclaim, adding a touch of soul to a concrete jungle.

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Travel

Horse Backing Mongolia

“To understand the life of a nomad, you must see it through their eyes, feel it through their movements, and live it through their experiences.”

I first traveled to Mongolia almost a decade ago and it has forever left a lasting imprint, serving as an impetus which gave me reassurance to pursue my nomadic lifestyle today.

In our modern paradigm of planning every step of our future, there’s something to be said for those who arrange their lives according to the capricious sentiments of the winds and the weather. They accept what the present holds, and move accordingly. One morning may bring you sun, while the next brings you snow.

Regardless, you keep moving…

The Mongolians on the steppes are rough, rugged, and raw. And what makes them so hardy is they have no idea they are.

Waking up as the sun rises, you snap out of your hangover to gear yourself up for the day that lies ahead. We got another eight hours to ride so let’s get moving.

What’s interesting as a tourist is that I have no idea where I’m going to sleep that night.

“Who will we meet?” I ask my guide. He says he’s not sure but has a rough idea of where we can go and who we can visit.

So this is how you spend your days: horse backing for several hours as you come across a ger, open its door, drink their tea, catch up on local news, and carry on.

The next day you may find yourself helping a local setup his ger or pack it up, as they get ready to head to their next destination, going where there are fresh pastures for their goats.

Though you don’t ever sleep at the same place, there’s a routine that sets in after the third day or so. You adjust to the free-flowing nature of these nomads and the unplanned nature of the day ahead becomes refreshing, as you meet family after family, get a glimpse into their lives, sleep, wake up, say your goodbyes, and carry on.

On some days you may find yourself goat herding…

On other days, you may find yourself sleeping alone in a cabin. The cabins are much colder inside than the gers because of the gaping holes between some panels. So what do you do? Go outside, collect wood, and build a fire to last the night…

Then there are those random moments where you may meet a local, chat it up, and he offers you to go off-roading for a few nights. So what do you do? Ask him if you can drive in exchange for providing the liquor…

Speaking of liquor, the beverage of choice in Mongolia is Chinggis Vodka (named after Genghis Khan). I had never heard of the brand before but I got to know it well by the end of my stay. It’s surprisingly pleasant and goes down smooth, akin to a decent vodka.

When you’re not drinking alcohol, you’re brewing tea by the river.

Or interacting with students at a local school.

While at night testing your strength:

In our ever more conscientious consuming culture, what I noticed after spending a few weeks with Mongolians is that they waste nothing. You eat everything that’s given to you, and at times prepare meals yourself as you strike a goat’s head with a metal rod to ensure it a quick death. Then you skin and knead its organs for consumption. Even the hooves and head are consumed, to be boiled in a stew.

All of this makes for quite the experience and I highly recommend others to go check out Lake Khovsgol for an authentic Mongolian excursion.

This is one of those places that has yet to be populated by tourism so the local culture is intact and truly feels like you’re getting a genuine experience.

“A true nomad won’t be found in the city, for the presence of too many will perturb his instincts. No, he is found in nature, the only refuge which beckons him to go his own way.”

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True Romance: Europe

Prague

“Romance is akin to a fine wine. The pleasure derives from as much the flavor as it does the environment in which we’re enjoying it.”

As a young backpacker, let’s be honest: a primary reason why we travel is to engage in the occasional tryst or rendezvous, be it of the one-night variety or to last a lifetime.

Athens

We’re interested in the people we meet and, ideally, we hope to meet people we’re attracted to. In Europe is where I’ve had some of my most romantic encounters.

Looking back, I realize it was the atmosphere of these encounters that made these memories so unique: be it sipping wine until daybreak under a bridge by a canal, meeting someone on the train cabin right next to yours, or hanging out at a café where the ambience strikes a different chord from what we’re accustomed to.

Lisbon

Non-Europeans tend to have a romanticized view of the continent. For many of us, exploring Europe has been on our bucket list since childhood. While other destinations can offer history or modernity, European cities are great at offering both: providing leisure as we peruse landmarks in the day and seek fun at night. Either way, we can explore in comfort and style.

Ibiza

With an abundance of travelers in Europe, it’s easy to mingle with both tourists and locals alike. In particular, southern Europe and its Greek Islands are beautiful in the spring and summer, with an abundance of accommodations available to enjoy stunning views.

Adriatic Sea
Fira

Simply put, Europe is romantic. And a great reason why is because of the historic nature of its cities: of cobblestone bricks, centuries-old apartments and cafes, and monuments which have endured even after warfare and strife.

History is romantic. And Europe has plenty of it.

Paris

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King’s Landing: Dubrovnik

“Once built to keep foreigners afar, forts today serve as landmarks which can’t keep us out.”

After enjoying the series Game of Thrones for several years, I knew the next time I was in Europe I had to check out King’s Landing, in present-day Croatia.

Dating back to the 7th century, Dubrovnik was under the protection of the Byzantine Empire and later the Republic of Venice. Beginning in the 14th century, it became a free state and a center for diplomacy and wealth. As late as 1991, the city was besieged by the Yugoslav People’s Army until it became known for what it is today: a Mediterranean tourist destination and a hotspot for Hollywood filming.

I find Dubrovnik’s history fitting for King’s Landing since the territory underwent centuries of strife itself, between a French occupation, Austrian rule, and Yugoslavian control.

As a tourist, journeying its city walls and gaining a view from higher ground is beautifully scenic.

For an even higher vantage point, take the 4-minute cable car ride 2500 feet up, which serves as a great juxtaposition between past and present engineering feats. You’re also welcome to hike the hill’s trails, which takes about an hour either way.  

On the ground level, strolling within the walls lends itself to a sense of “Old Europe”, and it’s amazing to think its restaurants and cafes today were besieged just decades earlier. It gives humanity hope, in that relics of war have turned to cultural heritage sites today.

I rented an apartment within the city walls for a few days to enjoy afternoon walks around the area and to get a feel for the local vibe. The streets turn eerily quiet at night, with most of Dubrovnik’s night life existing outside the Old Town walls.

For a day trip, I recommend taking a ferry to Lokrum Island, where a monastery and a botanical garden still exist.

But be aware. Local legend has it the island is cursed, from when Benedictine monks were forced to evacuate from here centuries ago.

The myths add to the enchantment of Lokrum, as you stroll through its meandering trails. The infamous Iron Throne from the TV series is located on this island as well.

When bored with sightseeing, spend a night or two at a seaside hotel outside the Old Town so you can enjoy the sunset views and leisurely pace of the city.

With a glass of wine in hand, it makes for a charming evening.

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Nepali Shaman: A Vow of Silence

“In silence lies maturity; a sense of the timeless where wisdom meets reverence.”

To the left, is a Nepali shaman. As a man of spirituality, he has left our realm, making a vow of silence as he focuses on his meditations and guides the dead into the afterlife. For some holy men, these vows can last as long as a dozen years.

Located along the Bagmati River of Kathmandu, lies the funeral pyres of Pashputinath temple, where the dead are cremated.

Context of Kathmandu in relation to other historic sites.

The Bagmati river eventually joins the Ganges, which is considered one of the holiest bodies of water on this planet. Like its currents, the pyres here are constantly alit, symbolizing the ebb and flow of human life, as we realize how transient our existence is.

But, for Hindus, death is a process of life, one serving to balance the other.

The temple here honors Shiva, the Hindu Lord, god of destruction and transformation; underlying Hindu beliefs in reincarnation and karma.

Marigold flowers surround the body, which are commonly displayed for all ceremonial occasions in this region and India. To Hindus, marigolds are considered the “flower of the soul,” and are a sign of auspiciousness and trust in the divine.

The crowds here are quiet and respectful, a mixture of the bereaved, locals, and tourists.

The oldest son, if there is one, will walk around the pyre then light the kindling near the deceased’s forehead, which is symbolically important since Hindus believe from the mouth is where our spirit is released.

Once the body is lit, it will be covered with wet straw, which creates smoke and conceals the body from view during the cremation process. When this process is done, the family will collect the remaining ashes and scatter them into the river below, thereby finalizing the purification process for the deceased’s soul.   

Having traveled here years ago, I do not remember how I got here or what I did afterwards. Nor do I remember what I did the day before or after. I do remember witnessing this process however. Even if one is not religious or a Hindu, there is a certain beauty and reverence that underlies the process of death in ancient cultures, as you realize these sacred rites have existed for thousands of years.

These types of moments are unique in the sense that you get a chance to glimpse into the lives of those so different from your contemporary western upbringing. I first tried to learn more about Hindu customs to get an idea of what I was witnessing, then I thought about what my life would be like if I had been raised with such beliefs?

Such thoughts make you question your own religious background and upbringing, not in a negative manner, but more so you begin to ponder if there are other equally valid interpretations to life beyond the scope you were born into.  

Though I may not know much about spiritual devotion, I will respect most near anyone who has given up their worldly life and made a vow of silence for years on end. His insights into humanity will vastly differ from my own.

Not all of the holy men here possess such devotion however. Like certain preachers in the west, some are more in it for the hustle; earning their livelihood from tourist donations. I do not view such holy men as negative either. Instead, I give them a grin and a smile, as they remind me how much we still share in common across cultures.

“Some are in it for the faith, others for the grind; Some want a piece, while others want peace of mind.”

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Uzi Island

“It’s probably a name you’ve never heard of or a place you imagined existing.”

I’ve traveled to several remote locations in my life, and Uzi Island is memorable because the natural elements still reign supreme, as the locals adjust their lifestyle accordingly. To picture Uzi Island is to get a glimpse of how Zanzibar Island was like centuries ago, without all its recent development.

Regarding its locals, there is about 6000 people living here, mainly as fishermen or farmers.

Yet, there is not a single bar, restaurant or hotel in sight, revealing how seldom tourists travel here. There is a school in the area, but that’s about it in terms of landmarks.

The school

Located in the south of Zanzibar, Uzi Island can only be reached by boat or by vehicle during low tide.

Center-South

Either way, you cross its dense mangrove forests, which is a memorable excursion in of itself.

Mangrove forest during high tide
During low tide

While Zanzibar is a tourist mecca for those traveling to East Africa, less than 1% probably traverse this far south. The northeast and northwest are the hotbeds for tourism here.

Spending my days in locations like Uzi Island is hypnotic in the sense that nothing changes from day-to-day but the weather. There is no urge to turn its scenic locations into hotels, build its economy, or to make the most of its resources. With so much of human desire driven by exploitation of our environment, it feels comforting to know places like Uzi Island exist where that drive remains muted.

Daily market
Spinning fabrics

On a personal level, this creates a sort of tension within myself. As I’m reaching middle age, I know I need material accumulation for myself to have a successful future, yet I feel an aversion to it, as I see how people live in remote locations in such peace with their environment. Though poverty is prevalent, the drive to suicide or depression is nonexistent in these locales.

So what should I do? Spend the next twenty years accumulating as much capital as I can, or return to the city realizing that so much of what occupies our mind is a façade? I don’t know the answer to these questions, and I think it’s up to each individual to make that decision themselves.

The only recommendation I can give is that I hope young individuals get the opportunity to travel to such remote locations on their own so they can re-tune their rhythms to nature rather than the market.

The lives here are as worthy as our own, and I’m thankful for such experiences as they’ve widened my understanding regarding the breadth of human experience.

This world is big. Locations like Uzi Island abound everywhere; it’s on us to decide are such locations meant for development or should we leave them as is?

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Kyoto Unique

Eikan-do

Contrast makes life vivid.”

Kyoto is a city of contrasts, in which the traditional collides with the present, roads bustle near serene gardens, colorful kimonos dot the streets amidst a sea of grey and green, and geishas scurry to teahouses in the evening while businessmen stumble home from whiskey houses in the morning.  

As more businessman than geisha, I found myself stumbling to my hotel on several late nights, forgetting its location as I was in a daze from swirling too much Suntory and Nikka whiskey. Though most bars close by 2AM, the smaller, local joints stay open till much later if patrons are still seated. When I picture Japan, I think of polite society — and nothing is more polite than allowing a patron to enjoy his bottle till it’s finished.

Though Kyotolites speak little English and my Japanese abilities are nonexistent, the conversations were pleasant and many of the bars were family-run which always adds to the ambience and distinctness to a neighborhood.

The Japanese are bounded by a sense of mutual trust and duty, which is evident in how very few bikes have locks attached to them at night. They trust that no one would steal them, for who would do such a thing?

For visitors, Kyoto is frequently rated as one of the most bicycle-friendly cities in Asia due to the sheer number of local bikers and its relatively flat landscape with grid-like design making it easy to navigate.

But what would biking be without interesting destinations to visit?

Kinkaku-ji
Ryoanji Rock Garden

And what makes Kyoto one of my favorite cities is its uniqueness; there’s nothing quite like it and I have no idea what other city I can compare it to, from its origins as the birthplace of kaiseki cuisine (in which 6-15 dishes are served) to its historic temples and rock gardens.

Taking a 2-3 hour stroll through Fushimi Inari as you glance at locals making crafts, or taking a shorter walk through the Philosopher’s Path to enjoy the view of Cherry Trees, is as quaint and peaceful as life gets — all of which makes it understandable why Kyoto has the 4th longest life expectancy out of Japan’s 47 prefectures (at 84.38 years).

Fushimi Inari

Kyoto is often considered the cultural heart of Japan and what’s beautiful is that, for a modern city, its traditions are still living, from the attire of its locals to the architecture of its temples — a sense of the past is ever-pervading and it’s not too difficult to imagine how life was like here centuries ago, something that is incredibly rare for a contemporary city to maintain.

Old & New