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Istanbul: A Convergence of Continents

“Istanbul: A city where two continents collide, a clashing of cultures effervescent as the tide.”

Separated by the Bosphorus strait, the world’s narrowest waterway for international navigation, Istanbul has the distinction of being the only major city located on two continents.

Speaking to the locals, you get a feeling that they’re culturally ambiguous — with some identifying as Asians, others Europeans, and the rest ambivalent. Though only 5% of Turkey’s landmass today is on the European continent, during the age of the Ottoman Empire, they extended far into modern-day Greece, Romania, Bulgaria, and Hungary — leading to inevitable ethnic mixing and a shared cultural history today.

Coming from a Korean background, which is one of the most ethnically homogenous countries in the world (at over 99% Korean), it’s always fascinating for me to travel to countries or cities that are more diverse in makeup. Plus, being raised in the contemporary suburbs of California, I’ve always possessed a profound intrigue to explore places that are more historic in nature, based on thousands of years of living cultural history.

So spending a month in Istanbul definitely met my criteria in terms of being a destination that would be otherworldly given my background.

Hagia Sophia

Built in 537, the Hagia Sophia is emblematic of Turkey’s diversity. Originally designed as a Christian Cathedral by the Greeks, it transformed briefly to a Roman Catholic Church between 1204-1261 (when Christian crusaders placed a prostitute on its altar, raped all the women they could grab, and plundered all its gold, silver and jewelry). Then in 1453, the Turkish Islamic Sultan, Mehmet II, rode in by horse and declared it a mosque (killing more than 20,000 in its atrium who were seeking refuge). In 1935, the secular Turkish Republic converted the Hagia Sophia to a museum, and in 2020, it’s most recent president re-opened it as a mosque.

Inside the Hagia Sophia

Quite a tumultuous history. I find it ironic that a house of worship was used for desecration, murder, and rape. It goes to show religions have more in common than we think, for, in the end, it is powerful men dictating their tenets.

It also goes to show that the world is much safer today than we think. In our current partisan climate, many people view the world as more divisive and violent than ever, to which my response is that they need to read a history book. At least today we’re not outright killing each other by the thousands in places of worship. To me, that’s progress.

There are several other landmarks of interest dotting around Istanbul, including the Blue Mosque, Topkapi Palace, and Grand Bazaar. Istanbul has a great number of tourist attractions to see, and I’d say a weekend trip would be too short to get a feel for the city.

The Galata Tower rises over the skyline on the other side of the mosques, and its narrow pathways are cool to walk through. As a person who prefers walking as opposed to taking a car when sightseeing, Istanbul is one of those cities in which you can get lost in its streets, each corner providing you a different view.

Taksim Square above is a leisure district famous for its shopping, restaurants, and hotels. The Asian side of Istanbul houses more of its nightlife and, contrary to what you may think being in a Muslim country, the bars and clubs stay open late.

On a random night out with Saudis, I think I got drugged by one of them and awoke to a $800 bill from a club I don’t remember visiting. The next night, I went into the place with two policemen and my Airbnb host to act as my translator. It’s one of those peculiar cultural moments where you realize you’re no longer in Kansas. I negotiated with the boss for over an hour in his private room and, fortunately, secured a refund.

Do I regret the encounter? Not really. Experiences like the above make your travels memorable. And I got to know my Airbnb host, a guy around my age, much better after the experience.

As a solo traveler, you end up in the oddest of scenarios at times, adding a touch of the surreal to a life filled with routine.

And to get out of your comfort zone, spending your time in Istanbul will be an eye-opening experience. It’s a city that offers a conglomeration of history, modernity, cuisine, nightlife, and activities, making it difficult to summarize in a brief word or two. Even my memories are getting vague as the years pass.

Overall, I’d say it’s what you were expecting but different too, adding a touch of the familiar with a different view.

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Travel

Moroccan Mosques, Sunsets & Souqs

Essaouria

“Another day has passed, another sun has set; Like sands in hourglass, one day we’ll all get swept.”

Compared to other Arabian countries, Morocco is known for being one of the most tolerant, stable and safest. As a result, it has surpassed Egypt in the past decade as the most visited country in Africa, with nearly 13 million visitors annually. It’s close proximity to European countries like Spain and Portugal also makes it an easy plane or ferry trip away.

Of all the countries I’ve traveled to, Morocco probably tops my list in terms of being the most randomly inspired. One afternoon while at my friend’s house, I perused through his mother’s catalogue of Korean Vogue and Cosmopolitan magazines while I was doing my thing in the bathroom. While flipping through the pages, what immediately caught my eye were pictures of the Jemaa el-Fnaa market place in Marrakesh’s medina quarter. Within that instant, I knew I had to check it out and, sure enough, within a year I was there.

In life, instances like these are the most vivacious and pure — when you have a moment of inspiration, then go out and live it.

I flew into Casablanca and stayed at a colorful residence by the ocean.

When arriving at Hassan II Mosque, which is the 7th largest active mosque in the world, I came upon a celebratory scene on my first day out, one in which the locals were cheering from their vehicles, waving flags as they passed by.

I’m guessing the local soccer team had just won a major victory as the entire town was lively and people stayed out into the night. Either way, it made for an interesting arrival to a country you’ve never been.

Inside the mosque, the scene was quiet and of reverence.

So I got down on my knees and sent a prayer back home as well.

While walking the streets of Essaouria, which is a 250-mile drive south of Casablanca, I met a boy who wanted me to take a picture of him. It was a notable memory because before I took the shot, he looked around the ground for something to hold up, as if to show his pride. He ended up picking a rock and held it up against his chest.

When I come across children like this in developing nations, it’s a bittersweet feeling. The interactions are pure but you realize how little they have in comparison to their counterparts in wealthier countries.

Of course, sometimes they ask for money but more often they’re just fascinated in meeting a foreigner and filled with wonder. As we get older, we lose that sense of childlike curiosity. These children serve as a reminder in my travels of how blessed I am — and how as a global citizen it is also my responsibility to give back.

Essaouria was designated a World Heritage Site in 2001 and is famous for its riads (bed-and-breakfasts) and artisans. In fact, the whole country of Morocco is known for its crafts, whether that’s its tanneries and ceramics or rugs and woodwork.

A Local Tannery

My next stop in Morocco was to Marrakesh, a city full of vibrant colors and mosaics set against the drabness of the desert.

Majorelle Garden

When I arrived in town, I stayed at a friend of a friend’s hotel. I forget the exact backstory of the hotel’s creation, but it was formerly a palace which they had converted into a hotel. I had arrived before they had officially opened but they were fully staffed in preparation. So it felt odd in a way, as there were no other guests. Once I arrived in or out of the hotel, all staff eyes were fixed on me. As a creature of the night, I had a very nocturnal sleeping schedule and wouldn’t return till around 6AM on most nights. They must have found me a peculiar guest.

Out of all of Morocco’s cities, Marrakesh is known for its nightlife, and I made the most of it.

But beyond the frivolities of these nights, what I takeaway most from my experience in Morocco is the hospitality of Kiasa, the daughter of the hotel owners. Out of all my travels, there are few individuals who have treated me with such grace and hospitality. It is these types of interactions that are good for the soul, adding a touch of warmth to what at times can be a cold world.

Sometimes referred to as the Daughter of the Desert, Marrakesh is a destination I would like to return again in the future to further explore its culture and history.

These Feet are Meant for Traveling

But, alas, there are only so many free days we have in a lifetime. So we must take heed to make the most of them.

“All I ask a meeting, or greeting, I won’t be long; For time is a fleeting, one evening, we’ll all be gone.

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Travel

Boracay’s Clear Skies

“Bomb’s away! That’s sometimes how you gotta approach your next step. It’s the leaps in life that define our journeys.”

I flew into Boracay from Beijing, frustrated by an overnight delay and my flight fucked by Air China. I didn’t even know why I was here to be honest. Guess I thought it would make for a relaxing ending to my trip to Nepal and Tibet. While monasteries were the mainstay in Kathmandu and Lhasa, Boracay was a slice of beaches, clear skies, and adventure. And nothing was more adventurous than jumping 50-feet off a wooden plank into the ocean.

To prepare myself, the all-you-can-drink cocktails at Ariel’s Point provided me with that liquid courage.

And I took several shots each time I jumped. To envision what it’s like, get out the 5th floor of any elevator, look out the window, and imagine jumping. You feel the free fall for a few seconds.

My first jump felt like I got my nose finger-banged, as a surge of saltwater whooshed into my nostrils. I forgot to close them. I did three jumps in total from 50 feet, but memories of the first one are most vivid. I was pretty intoxicated by the 2nd and 3rd.

Ariel’s Point is fun no doubt, but it is tourist kitsch to the extreme, as you are surrounded by 50 Aussies and Europeans in their 20s looking for a good time. It’s a slice of Instagram heaven.

And I came prepared for the nights out.

My stay in Boracay was jarring compared to having just spent nine nights in Tibet, where the only tourists you meet are those interested in local culture and history steeped in thousands of years of tradition. Boracay is nothing like that, it’s more known for its white sands and being ranked #1 as the best island in the world by popular publications like Travel + Leisure and Conde Nast Traveler.

There’s lots of activities out here, I’ll give it that. It’s a haven for those into adventurous beach sports. I wanted to try skyboosting but the equipment was unfortunately out of order. So I did other activities like those below.

Unsatisfied with my accommodations from my first night, I found a place on the beach with sunset view in station 1. I negotiated 60% off the rate and I enjoyed my time hanging with the local Filipinos. A really friendly people.

When I came home from my beach activities in the afternoon, I liked chilling in my patio with my neighbor.

So would I ever come to Boracay again? I’m not too sure.

The food was delicious and the locals are amazing, but something about the vibe just felt too commonplace. It nowhere near left the same imprint as a location like Tibet. And, to be fair, I guess few could in the world.

If you want a break from your work routine and just want to chill out, it’s a nice place to go with a group of friends or a date. The peak season for good weather is long, from September-June. Boracay is broken down into 3 main stations for tourists. The first station has the best beaches while the second is better known for its eateries and nightlife. The third is for budgeters, offering cheaper accommodations.

Boracay overall is a relatively small island so there’s not much to do if you plan on staying for longer than a few days. The best moments I remember enjoying are its sunsets, as you realize you just might never witness them ever again from these shores.

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Devotion Tibet

“Culture doesn’t live in our monuments or artworks, it breathes in our practices and rites from generations past.

With the rapid ascent towards globalization, among these, how many traditions can we expect to last?”

Where once roamed over 5,000 monks in the early half of the 20th century, this square is now spare with only around 300 monks currently residing at the Sera Monastery. The 1959 Tibetan uprising against the Communist government left hundreds dead and the monastery almost beyond repair.

Yet, traditions must continue. The Sera Monastery is notable because the monks here participate in lively debate in the courtyard, as they slap their hands together and stomp their feet to make their point. They pose questions to each other and defend their arguments, each physical gesture signifying a specific point according to their rules of engagement. It was fascinating to observe, with the sheer ferocity in which they debated giving you pause.

In terms of the above figures I just cited, they are debatable, as I’ve looked online and read different numbers (I’m providing the figures my tour guide gave me). Regardless, it’s obvious that the adherents to the traditions here in Tibet are dwindling.

To provide context in terms of how I journeyed here, Tibet is one of the few destinations in which I had to plan for in advance, simply because one cannot travel here otherwise. I had to book a trip through a Chinese-approved travel agency to get a visa.

Hearing this, you might get the impression that your journey will be tightly regulated by the Chinese government. While that is true in some regards (as you can feel the ever-pervading presence of Chinese military and police), overall, I’d say it was less restrictive than I expected. Though your itinerary is regulated, daily life goes on and you are free to interact with whom you choose.

My guide, Dharma, was a Tibetan native in his early 30s and I wouldn’t say he was brainwashed by Chinese authorities to give us a sterilized view of Tibet. He had been jailed for a year as a result of his activism (for wearing a ‘Free Tibet’ shirt) and I enjoyed spending my nights chatting with him, while the rest of our tour group would go to bed.

When you picture a Tibetan, you have a certain image in your mind, right? Stereotypical in nature, wearing those red robes and living in solemn silence? That’s one thing traveling teaches me. Those stereotypes don’t hold true once you visit a country. People are much more similar across cultures than you ever expect. At night, Dharma would share his stories of dalliances with European tourists and about funny incidents such as when an Italian tourist invited him back to his hotel room and the man was naked.

We all have our way of earning a living, and it just happens that being a Tibetan tour guide is his.  

In the daytime, Dharma kept it professional. Traveling with me for my nine-day stay were three European tourists and a Colombian. Small in number, we got to know each other well as the days passed.  

One thing that struck me about being in Tibet is how advanced the infrastructure is. China is pumping billions of dollars into its development. So it’s a unique mixture of ancient temples and customs awash in new roads and buildings.

On my first day walking alone in the city, I came across Potala Palace. I had no idea it was so close to my hotel, being only a 15-minute walk away.

While strolling around its parameter for a couple hours, I saw Tibetans who would kneel in prayer as they made their way around it. This struck me as the most devoted action I have ever witnessed in my life — and what made it noteworthy was that they were dressed in everyday street clothes, not as monks. I spent about 10 minutes keeping my eye on two individuals in particular as they kneeled around the entire palace:

I couldn’t help but imagine, “What is going through their minds? And what was their childhood like? What beliefs and values do they hold that a foreigner like me will never be privy to?” I had just flown in from Nepal so it reminded me of the shamans at the funeral pyres of Pashputinath temple, some of whom make up to a 12-year vow of silence (https://nobleventures.net/nepali-shaman-a-vow-of-silence/)

Human culture is absolutely fascinating.

So what does it look like inside these monasteries?

Drepung Monastery

Here’s where the stereotypes somewhat ring true and you can kind of expect what you see, probably because these are the images of Tibet we’ve seen from travel channels or publications like National Geographic.

To ward off evil spirits

I preferred the pictures I took outside the monasteries because they provide a more human element to how life is here, whereas inside I felt the monks were more conscious of tourists taking pictures of them. Outside, you can see them on their breaks and more casual.

Fellow tourists

After a few days touring the monasteries in Lhasa, off we went on a road trip to see the more fun stuff, like Mount Everest and Karola Glacier. I feel Mt. Everest deserves its own entry so I’ll leave that for another time.

Karola Glacier

What left me fascinated about the interior of China is how vacant and raw its landscapes are.

Yamdrok Lake
Yellow River

In terms of size, China’s landmass is slightly larger than the United States so you can imagine what geographical wonders exist within its borders.

And with such an array of ethnicities and cultures, one can only hope their traditions will last for several more generations to come.

In the meantime, you can buy trinkets from the vendors along the highways you come across. I picked up quite a few to give to my coworkers.

When I look back upon my stay in Tibet, it was more of an educational experience than that of entertainment. I can see why there is so much historical lore from past visitors to the region — and it is somewhat sad that I heard more about Tibet in the news as a child growing up in the 90’s than I do today.

Back then, there was a kernel of hope in a Free Tibet whereas today that dream is quashed. Regardless, cultural rites endure. That’s one thing I learned about humanity. We endure.

And it is in our traditions that keep our culture breathing, living, and as the most enduring element to who we once were — and who we still are.

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Travel

Kahama AIDS Tour

“Live, Dance and, above all, Respect yourself; Cause when all is gone, all you got is health.”

If you had 7000 HIV tests, how would you go about raising public awareness so that people would want to take them in rural Africa?

The NGO, GUTz, came up with the innovative solution of throwing music concerts to attract locals to test sites, linking up with famous musicians to create a festive environment.

Across the span of 4 days, we hit up rural villages deep into the interior of Tanzania, south of Lake Victoria, in the Shinyanga and Kahama region.

Located at the bottom of the image

This is a part of the country so remote that even Tanzanians don’t visit, so you really get a feel for the village culture.

How did we get around? Sometimes by motorcycle, which is a common method of transportation in most any developing nation. You just stand by the road and hail a cyclist, like you would a taxi. And off you go.

Other times we rolled by Land Cruiser.

We packed round 5 makeshift canopies and placed them on top of our vehicle, then would set up shop each morning, each day at a different site.

It is estimated that around 7% of the Tanzanian population (aged 15-49) is HIV-positive so it is dire to educate these individuals, especially in the rural communities, about the virus. Tanzanian beliefs regarding health are often shrouded in folklore and shamanism, however, which presents an imposing challenge to creating change.

Lines for testing

One of the interesting things about traveling to remote areas is that they could be steeped in thousands-of-year-old beliefs and traditions yet still have Coke and beer available at every corner shop, which is sometimes just a wooden frame.

In our ever globalizing world, consumerism travels faster than education unfortunately, for it really takes effort to educate a poor, rural region when there is no profit incentive to do so.

So the children get cavities instead.

My role on the team was to help GUTz document activities alongside my filmmaker, Ben. Regarding the kids here, they sometimes greet you suspiciously…

While other times with a fist bump.

But this is the reason why some people are driven to venture far out to remote regions and countries to do community work. At the end of the day, there’s a void to how much happiness can be bought.

To gain a clearer sense of purpose and conviction, at some point we have to contribute to the well being of others. If that’s to our friends and family, great. If that’s to those living thousands of miles away, that’s not too bad either. For its interactions like these that will instill in the next generation less bigotry and hate.

So I’d like to encourage all nomads out there. Always remember you’re a representative of your country and ethnicity. I don’t mean that as a matter of pride — what I mean is that your actions carry greater weight than what you do as an individual. Treat others well and greet them with a smile. That gesture will carry itself forward.

And, above all, as long as we still got our health, let’s keep it moving.

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Backpacker Beginnings in Paris

“Home may be where the heart is, but the voyage of self-discovery lies outdoors.”

The best decision I made in college was non-academic. It was choosing to study abroad at the American University of Paris (AUP). Regarding its campus, it was unique in that there wasn’t one. With a little less than 1000 students, there was no need for a centralized ‘campus’ in the American sense. The university rented buildings dotting around the center of Paris, the most unique one being a former church of which they made little renovations.

It felt out-of-place having class in a church; it reminded me of my Sunday sermons in childhood where you sometimes daydream and forget where you are for a moment, only now I awake to find myself in Paris.

My Parisian residence

Founded in 1962, AUP is one of the oldest American institutions of higher education in Europe. Regarding the curriculum, I don’t remember much from attending my classes. What has left an indelible imprint are my nights out roaming the streets of Paris and my backpacking trips to countries like Italy, the Netherlands, Germany, Spain, and Switzerland.

Venice’s Canals

Looking back upon my years in college, if I could re-do it — or give advice to teenagers — I would strongly recommend two things: One, go far. College is about adventure and new experiences so don’t choose a university that is nearby. Go far. Two, study abroad. And do it more than once.

Amsterdam’s Downtown

In your early 20s, you’re at the pinnacle of youth — at that age where you’re now old enough to make your own decisions, yet still young enough where you’re free to make mistakes without much derision. There’s a statement that resonates with me, something along the lines of failing yourself forward. But you can only fail if you avail yourself to new experiences. So go far.

Munich’s Oktoberfest

In many ways, though the periods were brief, my summer spent at UC Berkeley when I was 16 and my fall spent in Paris when I was 20 were much more of a collegiate experience than my four years spent at UC Irvine. Since I only lived a 20-minute drive away from Irvine, I was, in essence, exposed to very little new in my undergraduate education, to which I think ultimately stunted my development compared to how much I’ve grown in my travels.

Barcelona’s Gaudi Architecture

As someone who has been an international nomad for six years now, I can confidently say that the person I am today is far different in his perspective and understanding of the world than the teenage version of me born and raised in Orange County.

It’s one thing to know the world is big from glancing at a map or perusing a globe, it’s an entirely different thing to go out and actually experience that vastness yourself. While some are in dismay that there are no ‘new worlds’ to explore, my response is what difference does it make to you if you’ve never been there? To you, it will feel new because it is new.

Snowboarding Swiss Alps

“Home may be where the heart is, but the voyage of self-discovery lies outdoors.”

So go far and stay long. You will never return home the same person. You’ll gain a much more fundamental education, far more important than that of history or culture, you’ll discover who you are.

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Ethiopian Wedding Crasher

“Across the continents we explore, all’s fair in this game of love and war.”

Probably the most memorable entry I’ve had into a nation is Ethiopia. I had just flown in from Tanzania, was tired from a hangover to celebrate my last night out, and I had arrived to Addis Ababa (the capital of Ethiopia) expecting a calm night of rest.

Greeting me upon my arrival was a man by the nickname King Rasta who had other intentions. I was introduced to him by someone I knew from Tanzania. He told me we’re heading to a wedding. So I replied, “Why not.”

But to wake me I told him I would first need a drink, to which his friends happily obliged.

It is instances like these I love about traveling. Just the sheer spectacle of it all and how you can never predict how your trip is going to unfold because you’re open to anything, stuff like heading straight from the airport to a wedding without even having dropped off your backpack.

In terms of location, Ethiopia is north of Kenya and Tanzania and south of the Middle East, of countries like Yemen and Saudi Arabia.

Because of its relative centrality between the Middle East and the interior of Africa, the locals here looked very different from the Africans I saw in Tanzania. There was a much greater Arabic influence in its people, both in appearance and customs.

Ethiopia also felt much more developed than Tanzania, as it was unlikely most Tanzanians could afford such lavish affairs for weddings. I heard from Rasta that a family may celebrate their wedding for a month-straight if they could afford it, with each day another festival.

Sounds like my kind of people.

After the wedding party, a group of 20 of us headed to a lounge. It was here my first time drinking Johnnie Walker with carbonated water like Perrier. The Ethiopians I was with all drank whiskey this way. I didn’t like it at first but I find it ironic that right now I’m drinking the same mix. I usually drink my whiskey straight but I end up drinking too fast, so I grabbed sparkling water a few nights ago to slow my pace.

When we finally got to Rasta’s house that night, he had prepared for me to sleep in his room. I was shocked by the gesture and initially refused, but he persuaded me that it is Ethiopian custom that a guest take the best room available in the house. He slept in his sister’s old room. The next day I got to interact with his parents, who were just as gracious.

The above gesture was one of the kindest that a stranger has ever offered me, and provided me a greater awareness of what hospitality means. I was only 25 at the time, and this was my first go-through Africa. The experience was so different from what I had conceived prior to my arrival — it was good in the sense that it educated me.

I feel too much of our knowledge these days derives from the Internet and clickbait. So we grow up with a distorted mind-frame in which we know a lot about the world but experience very little of it. My hope in writing these entries is that it compels in audiences to devote more time to actually going out into the world and exploring it for yourself.

Instead of passively viewing content, become an active participant in events. Read less, Do more. As you age, the memories and recollections you have become much more vivid that way, with your growth immeasurable.

Of Sub-Saharan African countries, outside of South Africa, Ethiopia is probably the most known for its cuisine internationally. If you’ve ever eaten at an Ethiopian restaurant, you’re likely to remember the experience because of how unique it is. The staple dish that goes with most any meal is injera, a type of sourdough bread that is spongy in texture. Laying over it are various dishes, which you eat with the bread. Ethiopians will use their right hand to grab a piece of injera as they then mix it up with the dishes. It’s unique in that you’re eating your ‘plate’ with the meal. I couldn’t locate my old photos but found this one online as an example:

Courtesy of Mail & Guardian

I also ate raw meat straight from the butcher. Rasta took me here to try authentic Ethiopian cuisine. This dish, tere siga, requires no preparation and you literally eat it raw, as you cut up and dab slices of beef into mitmata and awaze, which consist of a peppers, cardamom, cloves and salt powder mix and chili pepper sauce, respectively.

Pretty gnarly, right? They’ve eaten this way for centuries. As a polite guest, I dug in.

I honestly can’t say it was tasty. It tastes like how it looks, an acquired taste I’m guessing. Tere siga is a dish in which the meat is firm and dry. Ethiopians assert it tastes different from American cuts because American cattle is grain fed, which makes it more watery and soft as a result.

The above information will likely in no way, shape or form impact my future, but it’s little takeaways like this that make a trip memorable.

Aside from these events, I visited a few museums, cathedrals, and mosques. Ethiopia has some of the oldest human skeletal remains in existence, dating back several millions of years. But other than that, I don’t remember much from these excursions.

It is my memories of Rasta I remember most, and I appreciate his graciousness and the hospitality of all the wedding guests I had met on my arrival in Ethiopia. My stay was brief yet succinct, and then I had to catch a plane to Egypt to see who would greet me next.

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Travel

Oregon Trail

“In humanity’s trails, it is ultimately landscapes which direct our journey. While some look to our footpaths, the greatest imprints will always be found in nature.”

When it comes to Oregon, it’s one of the few places I remember more for its residents than I do for its landscapes.

While most trips I sojourn alone, Oregon is a destination in which I visit family, with both my brothers living there.

What I witnessed from visiting Oregon three times in the past six years is that where you live affects the person you become. An obvious distinction, right?

But nowhere has this been more evident than Oregon, as I saw how my brothers have transformed to living in rural America, far from the metropolis that is Los Angeles. In a way, I was able to understand Trump supporters more from seeing the changes I saw in my own brothers, as they went from city liberals in their 20s to conservative hillbillies in their 30s and beyond.

Oregon averages over 40,000 incoming Californians per year, with a whopping 57% of its residents migrants from other states. So what’s driving the boom?

The state is famous for its nonexistent sales tax, 4 seasons, laidback style, and its bevy of more than 200 breweries and nature trails. It’s kind of how I imagine California would have been a century ago, before Hollywood took over its culture.

So what are Oregon’s highlights?

Crater Lake

Topping the list has to be Crater Lake, which is famous for its deep blue waters and clarity. At near 2000 feet deep, it is the deepest lake in all of America and is featured on America’s quarter as an emblem for the state.

In the city of Bend, are several nearby geographical features that give it its moniker of being an outdoor sports gateway for fishing, hiking, skiing, and mountain climbing.

Deschutes River
Smith Rock
Elk Lake

With so many scenic spots and an affordable standard of living, Men’s Journal ranked Bend as one of “The Top 10 Places to Live Now” in 2015.

Though I could imagine living here for a few months, it’s hard to imagine doing so permanently, as my middle brother appears destined. With less than 100,o00 residents, the city feels more like a town and there’s not much to get into at night.

While its craft beer scene is fulsome, I just might drive myself mad from the silence.

But that’s what gives Bend its character. The town isn’t one for those who strive for Hollywood glamour, it’s meant for those who prefer comfort with who they are.

Sisters Waterfall

In the bottom-right of the above image, you can make out the tracings of my figure. In a way, this scene encapsulates life in Bend — and that of greater Oregon. At center stage, it is Oregon’s natural beauty that takes precedence, while humanity sifts to the outskirts of her trails and powerful rivers.

I wonder, “How would living in such tranquil bliss have affected my upbringing?” Perhaps it is something my nephew and niece could inform me upon in 20 years.

As it is now, my travels must continue — for there are many more destinations that beckon my arrival. As a proper guest, I must not keep them waiting…

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Czech It Out

““Each skull has a story, of which we will never know; of life and death, of pains and dreams forever untold.”

While browsing the web have you ever stumbled on something weird and wanted to check it out? That’s how I winded up here, at the Sedlec Ossaury.

I came here for the skulls and the Czech beer.

When it comes to the Czech Republic, there wasn’t much I knew beforehand about the country. The first three things that came to mind are its beer, soccer team, and porn stars.

Regarding the latter, the Czech Republic produces a remarkable 70 porn stars per million people. Only Hungary tops it in Europe, at 75/million.

If porn was an Olympic sport, they’d be outpacing American basketball in terms of talent produced.

Regarding its beer, the Czech Republic has the highest beer consumption per capita in the world, at over 190 liters per adult.

Here, they have no peer and are straight out-chugging the competition, almost doubling the next country on the list. Remarkable. The Michael Phelps of beer swishing.

Though these types of statistics aren’t the type to be healthy, they would make for an interesting country to visit, right?

That’s how I viewed my entry into the country, as I wanted to learn more about its culture and history.

I flew into Prague from the Sahara so it made for a jarring contrast. Some of its most famous landmarks are Prague Castle, Charles Bridge, and Old Town Square, which houses the famous Prague astronomical clock.

Installed in 1410, today it remains the oldest astronomical clock still operating in the world. The Old Town features a multitude of bars where you can grab a drink as you take in its baroque architecture. The castle’s towers are viewable from near anywhere if you’re eye level to the city.

And you’re likely to cross Charles Bridge to check it out.

With beer galore, you’d figure Czechs must eat hearty meals, right? I sometimes wonder: Does the alcohol of a nation influence the cuisine of its people, or is it the other way around? With French fine dining, for example, wine makes for an exquisite pairing, while Korean soju is inextricably tied to its BBQ dishes.

With beer, you’d expect a country to eat lots of meaty dishes like bratwurst — and you’d be correct. Popular Czech dishes are schnitzels, beef steak tartare, fried cheese, goulash, ham, and roasted duck (pictured below).

A nation that enjoys its beer won’t take itself too seriously, I reckon. The belly has no room for that.

In Prague, I stayed at a hostel for my first few days before I moved into a rustic Airbnb. It was my first time staying at a hostel in over 15 years and I was surprised by how clean and well-kept the place was. Backpackers today have a much more pleasant experience than did those of my era back in the early 2000s. I particularly liked the design of the hostel and its outdoor scenery.

I realized hostels today do a much better job of coordinating activities for guests. It felt like a summer camp orientation of sorts for young adults. The whole backpacker scene has changed so much in twenty years, with many more East Asian and South American tourists in Europe. Wifi and smartphones have been a gamechanger, making it much easier to stay in touch with others and figure out what to do for the night. This underscores how astronomically fast times are changing, and made me ponder what will the backpacking experience be like in 2040? Augmented reality tours and real-time videos of the going-on’s in a city?

Alas, after befriending a Costa Rican tourist, she expressed her interest in checking out Sedlec Ossuary with me so off we went. It makes for a good day trip, about an hour train ride away from Prague.  

The Sedlec Ossuary is a Roman Catholic Church and houses the skeletal remains of some 40-70,000 people. With so many bones, they were artistically arranged to serve as decorations. Gnarly..

Nowhere is this more evident than in its chandelier, which consists of every single bone in the human body, at least once. It’s probably the only chandelier in existence comprised of all bones.

So how did this come about?

In the 1200s, the abbot of the chapel brought back holy soil from a Jerusalem pilgrimage, of which he spread across Sedlec’s cemetery. As a result, Sedlec became the new it spot for bodies to be buried. By the 1400s, over 30,000 remains were housed here. They became so numerous that they were dug up and made into pyramids. Then, in 1870, an artisan hired by a noble family turned them into the ornate decorations we see today.

Pretty interesting, right? A story that took hundreds of years in the making and derived from such randomness: from a patch of Jerusalem dirt into a human chandelier 600 years later.

What a fascinating tale. The Butterfly Effect.    

So what did I take away from the experience? I can’t really say. The backstory is far more enticing than seeing the bones up-close to be honest. The church is small and we spent less than a half-hour wandering its walls. Hanging out in the local taverns and strolling around the town made for a bigger impression, as you can feel the history in its residents.

As I took a sip of my beer, I wondered how many of their ancestors were buried within these walls?

Categories
Travel

Kuala Lumpur, Nothin’ More?

Skyline from the rooftop pool

“Trips are like books: Sometimes the plot is hollow, the meaning tangential, and the conclusion arrives without much climax.“

Have you ever traveled to a place that wasn’t bad but didn’t leave much of an impression? In our ever-evolving world of social media pizzazz, we like to present our travel experiences as better than they are.

But, sometimes, when we look back on a trip it has no rhyme or reason, underscoring the random nature of our existence. That’s how I would describe my 3-week stay in Kuala Lumpur. I have nothing against the city and enjoyed my time visiting Malaysian friends who I had met from other destinations, but I’m not sure how else I could describe my trip.

It started off rather ominously. I flew into Malaysia from Africa to visit my brother and his wife on vacation, then he promptly flew out 2-days later after a trivial dispute with his wife. I then got a new client from my company and had to work at a feverish rate to meet a 5-day deadline in time for New Year’s, of which I celebrated just as randomly as well.

Happy New Year?

I’ll unlikely ever start off a trip like this again, but it does leave a unique imprint, if nothing else. Having spent 15-hour days working behind a screen, the best part of my stay was having a decent view.

That’s probably my biggest takeaway: Hours of staring away into the city skyline while feverishly working; drinking whiskey to keep me inspired and coffee to keep me up.

Though Malaysia is considered slightly more expensive than some of its Southeast Asian neighbors, it’s still relatively affordable out here and the local cuisine offers a good mix of Malay, Chinese and Indian cuisine, with those three ethnicities also comprising the vast majority of Kuala Lumpur’s population: at 46%, 43%, and 10% respectively.

So is there anything much else about Kuala Lumpur? I don’t know… The purpose of my blog isn’t to write about fascinating destinations necessarily, but more to serve as a journal in which to catalogue my experiences. I think it’s okay to look back upon a trip or experience and not imbue it with much meaning. Life doesn’t always work out like that.

In terms of my travels, sometimes people are under the impression I’m always doing exciting things because I change destinations frequently. When you’re traveling almost year-round, however, a routine eventually sets in and you will experience several days where you do nothing; just eating at restaurants and walking the streets like any other local.

My day-to-day pace is much more like this than it is chock full of activities. I enjoy sleeping in, browsing the Internet, and doing the typical things anyone else would do in there daily routines. Though my scenery changes more frequently, the rhythm of my average day doesn’t. I think that’s an important realization for any aspiring digital nomad: the understanding that not every day or trip will be enthralling and that sometimes even traveling the world can get boring.

Having had this lifestyle for six years now, that’s the best advice I could give to the younger generation of backpackers. It’s okay to not update your social media regularly or feel the need to make the most of every moment. Embrace the Boring. As each trip has its downturns, there will also be its simple moments to relish.

So keep your head up!