Tag: wanderlust

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Travel

Boracay’s Clear Skies

“Bomb’s away! That’s sometimes how you gotta approach your next step. It’s the leaps in life that define our journeys.”

I flew into Boracay from Beijing, frustrated by an overnight delay and my flight fucked by Air China. I didn’t even know why I was here to be honest. Guess I thought it would make for a relaxing ending to my trip to Nepal and Tibet. While monasteries were the mainstay in Kathmandu and Lhasa, Boracay was a slice of beaches, clear skies, and adventure. And nothing was more adventurous than jumping 50-feet off a wooden plank into the ocean.

To prepare myself, the all-you-can-drink cocktails at Ariel’s Point provided me with that liquid courage.

And I took several shots each time I jumped. To envision what it’s like, get out the 5th floor of any elevator, look out the window, and imagine jumping. You feel the free fall for a few seconds.

My first jump felt like I got my nose finger-banged, as a surge of saltwater whooshed into my nostrils. I forgot to close them. I did three jumps in total from 50 feet, but memories of the first one are most vivid. I was pretty intoxicated by the 2nd and 3rd.

Ariel’s Point is fun no doubt, but it is tourist kitsch to the extreme, as you are surrounded by 50 Aussies and Europeans in their 20s looking for a good time. It’s a slice of Instagram heaven.

And I came prepared for the nights out.

My stay in Boracay was jarring compared to having just spent nine nights in Tibet, where the only tourists you meet are those interested in local culture and history steeped in thousands of years of tradition. Boracay is nothing like that, it’s more known for its white sands and being ranked #1 as the best island in the world by popular publications like Travel + Leisure and Conde Nast Traveler.

There’s lots of activities out here, I’ll give it that. It’s a haven for those into adventurous beach sports. I wanted to try skyboosting but the equipment was unfortunately out of order. So I did other activities like those below.

Unsatisfied with my accommodations from my first night, I found a place on the beach with sunset view in station 1. I negotiated 60% off the rate and I enjoyed my time hanging with the local Filipinos. A really friendly people.

When I came home from my beach activities in the afternoon, I liked chilling in my patio with my neighbor.

So would I ever come to Boracay again? I’m not too sure.

The food was delicious and the locals are amazing, but something about the vibe just felt too commonplace. It nowhere near left the same imprint as a location like Tibet. And, to be fair, I guess few could in the world.

If you want a break from your work routine and just want to chill out, it’s a nice place to go with a group of friends or a date. The peak season for good weather is long, from September-June. Boracay is broken down into 3 main stations for tourists. The first station has the best beaches while the second is better known for its eateries and nightlife. The third is for budgeters, offering cheaper accommodations.

Boracay overall is a relatively small island so there’s not much to do if you plan on staying for longer than a few days. The best moments I remember enjoying are its sunsets, as you realize you just might never witness them ever again from these shores.

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Travel

Devotion Tibet

“Culture doesn’t live in our monuments or artworks, it breathes in our practices and rites from generations past.

With the rapid ascent towards globalization, among these, how many traditions can we expect to last?”

Where once roamed over 5,000 monks in the early half of the 20th century, this square is now spare with only around 300 monks currently residing at the Sera Monastery. The 1959 Tibetan uprising against the Communist government left hundreds dead and the monastery almost beyond repair.

Yet, traditions must continue. The Sera Monastery is notable because the monks here participate in lively debate in the courtyard, as they slap their hands together and stomp their feet to make their point. They pose questions to each other and defend their arguments, each physical gesture signifying a specific point according to their rules of engagement. It was fascinating to observe, with the sheer ferocity in which they debated giving you pause.

In terms of the above figures I just cited, they are debatable, as I’ve looked online and read different numbers (I’m providing the figures my tour guide gave me). Regardless, it’s obvious that the adherents to the traditions here in Tibet are dwindling.

To provide context in terms of how I journeyed here, Tibet is one of the few destinations in which I had to plan for in advance, simply because one cannot travel here otherwise. I had to book a trip through a Chinese-approved travel agency to get a visa.

Hearing this, you might get the impression that your journey will be tightly regulated by the Chinese government. While that is true in some regards (as you can feel the ever-pervading presence of Chinese military and police), overall, I’d say it was less restrictive than I expected. Though your itinerary is regulated, daily life goes on and you are free to interact with whom you choose.

My guide, Dharma, was a Tibetan native in his early 30s and I wouldn’t say he was brainwashed by Chinese authorities to give us a sterilized view of Tibet. He had been jailed for a year as a result of his activism (for wearing a ‘Free Tibet’ shirt) and I enjoyed spending my nights chatting with him, while the rest of our tour group would go to bed.

When you picture a Tibetan, you have a certain image in your mind, right? Stereotypical in nature, wearing those red robes and living in solemn silence? That’s one thing traveling teaches me. Those stereotypes don’t hold true once you visit a country. People are much more similar across cultures than you ever expect. At night, Dharma would share his stories of dalliances with European tourists and about funny incidents such as when an Italian tourist invited him back to his hotel room and the man was naked.

We all have our way of earning a living, and it just happens that being a Tibetan tour guide is his.  

In the daytime, Dharma kept it professional. Traveling with me for my nine-day stay were three European tourists and a Colombian. Small in number, we got to know each other well as the days passed.  

One thing that struck me about being in Tibet is how advanced the infrastructure is. China is pumping billions of dollars into its development. So it’s a unique mixture of ancient temples and customs awash in new roads and buildings.

On my first day walking alone in the city, I came across Potala Palace. I had no idea it was so close to my hotel, being only a 15-minute walk away.

While strolling around its parameter for a couple hours, I saw Tibetans who would kneel in prayer as they made their way around it. This struck me as the most devoted action I have ever witnessed in my life — and what made it noteworthy was that they were dressed in everyday street clothes, not as monks. I spent about 10 minutes keeping my eye on two individuals in particular as they kneeled around the entire palace:

I couldn’t help but imagine, “What is going through their minds? And what was their childhood like? What beliefs and values do they hold that a foreigner like me will never be privy to?” I had just flown in from Nepal so it reminded me of the shamans at the funeral pyres of Pashputinath temple, some of whom make up to a 12-year vow of silence (https://nobleventures.net/nepali-shaman-a-vow-of-silence/)

Human culture is absolutely fascinating.

So what does it look like inside these monasteries?

Drepung Monastery

Here’s where the stereotypes somewhat ring true and you can kind of expect what you see, probably because these are the images of Tibet we’ve seen from travel channels or publications like National Geographic.

To ward off evil spirits

I preferred the pictures I took outside the monasteries because they provide a more human element to how life is here, whereas inside I felt the monks were more conscious of tourists taking pictures of them. Outside, you can see them on their breaks and more casual.

Fellow tourists

After a few days touring the monasteries in Lhasa, off we went on a road trip to see the more fun stuff, like Mount Everest and Karola Glacier. I feel Mt. Everest deserves its own entry so I’ll leave that for another time.

Karola Glacier

What left me fascinated about the interior of China is how vacant and raw its landscapes are.

Yamdrok Lake
Yellow River

In terms of size, China’s landmass is slightly larger than the United States so you can imagine what geographical wonders exist within its borders.

And with such an array of ethnicities and cultures, one can only hope their traditions will last for several more generations to come.

In the meantime, you can buy trinkets from the vendors along the highways you come across. I picked up quite a few to give to my coworkers.

When I look back upon my stay in Tibet, it was more of an educational experience than that of entertainment. I can see why there is so much historical lore from past visitors to the region — and it is somewhat sad that I heard more about Tibet in the news as a child growing up in the 90’s than I do today.

Back then, there was a kernel of hope in a Free Tibet whereas today that dream is quashed. Regardless, cultural rites endure. That’s one thing I learned about humanity. We endure.

And it is in our traditions that keep our culture breathing, living, and as the most enduring element to who we once were — and who we still are.

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Backpacker Beginnings in Paris

“Home may be where the heart is, but the voyage of self-discovery lies outdoors.”

The best decision I made in college was non-academic. It was choosing to study abroad at the American University of Paris (AUP). Regarding its campus, it was unique in that there wasn’t one. With a little less than 1000 students, there was no need for a centralized ‘campus’ in the American sense. The university rented buildings dotting around the center of Paris, the most unique one being a former church of which they made little renovations.

It felt out-of-place having class in a church; it reminded me of my Sunday sermons in childhood where you sometimes daydream and forget where you are for a moment, only now I awake to find myself in Paris.

My Parisian residence

Founded in 1962, AUP is one of the oldest American institutions of higher education in Europe. Regarding the curriculum, I don’t remember much from attending my classes. What has left an indelible imprint are my nights out roaming the streets of Paris and my backpacking trips to countries like Italy, the Netherlands, Germany, Spain, and Switzerland.

Venice’s Canals

Looking back upon my years in college, if I could re-do it — or give advice to teenagers — I would strongly recommend two things: One, go far. College is about adventure and new experiences so don’t choose a university that is nearby. Go far. Two, study abroad. And do it more than once.

Amsterdam’s Downtown

In your early 20s, you’re at the pinnacle of youth — at that age where you’re now old enough to make your own decisions, yet still young enough where you’re free to make mistakes without much derision. There’s a statement that resonates with me, something along the lines of failing yourself forward. But you can only fail if you avail yourself to new experiences. So go far.

Munich’s Oktoberfest

In many ways, though the periods were brief, my summer spent at UC Berkeley when I was 16 and my fall spent in Paris when I was 20 were much more of a collegiate experience than my four years spent at UC Irvine. Since I only lived a 20-minute drive away from Irvine, I was, in essence, exposed to very little new in my undergraduate education, to which I think ultimately stunted my development compared to how much I’ve grown in my travels.

Barcelona’s Gaudi Architecture

As someone who has been an international nomad for six years now, I can confidently say that the person I am today is far different in his perspective and understanding of the world than the teenage version of me born and raised in Orange County.

It’s one thing to know the world is big from glancing at a map or perusing a globe, it’s an entirely different thing to go out and actually experience that vastness yourself. While some are in dismay that there are no ‘new worlds’ to explore, my response is what difference does it make to you if you’ve never been there? To you, it will feel new because it is new.

Snowboarding Swiss Alps

“Home may be where the heart is, but the voyage of self-discovery lies outdoors.”

So go far and stay long. You will never return home the same person. You’ll gain a much more fundamental education, far more important than that of history or culture, you’ll discover who you are.

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Thailand: Digital Nomad

“As a forerunner, chase the path you’re envisioning as opposed to the steps which already exist.”

Starting in 2015, I have spent about a third of my year traversing various countries, spending about a month each in every new destination, with the remainder of my time split between Korea and Tanzania. It’s fitting that the first destination I describe is Thailand, which is ranked by many travel sites as one of the best countries for digital nomads, be it the cities of Chiang Mai, Bangkok, or Phuket.

So what is a digital nomad?

It’s an individual whose job is not location-dependent, enabling them to travel freely. The most typical professions are those in IT or other tech-related industries. As an education consultant, my path to becoming a digital nomad followed a circuitous route. I quit my job at the end of 2014 to spend a year visiting home (California) and to travel through Central America, Europe and Africa.

I enjoyed my job as an education consultant and really enjoyed living in Korea, but I could see the path ahead of me if I stayed this course: I’d eventually start my own company, buy an apartment, settle down, and pop out a few kids. Though this path is what many strive for, I felt stifled by it, as I wasn’t quite ready to give up on my greater aspirations. As someone intensely driven by adventure and purpose, I chose to quit my job to return to Tanzania to build a nonprofit school and hopefully become a writer.   

I found this path far more appealing and suitable to my taste, although my family strongly disagreed (which is natural). At heart, I think to each his own and you have to chase the path you’re trying to create rather than embracing the one that comes most natural.

That sentiment captures the ethos of a nomad and, as proponents like Elon Musk state, if we really are living in a simulation than shouldn’t we approach life as a game? In no video game do you end from where you started; the epic and tales reside in the journey. And, so it is, in my thirties I chose to journey.

As I immersed myself in my travels, the companies I used to consult for became more open to my proposal of working online. Sometimes, you need to make the leap yourself for others to believe in the concept. Other times, quite frankly, they may not have a better alternative. Either way, go in the direction you want. These companies will still likely exist in a decade whereas my youth will not.

Regarding Bangkok itself, I had no specific reason why I chose this location. I was running out of options to be honest since I had by then (2017) visited the countries I wanted to check out. Having read so much online about the digital nomad lifestyle out here though, I felt I needed to revisit it from when I first vacationed here in my early 20’s.

The best word I can use to describe my lifestyle in Thailand is comfort. Thailand’s very comfortable for foreigners to have a longer stay in. The tourism infrastructure is great for travel, the cuisine is delicious, prices are affordable, the weather is generally favorable, the locals are friendly, it’s easy to meet fellow nomads, massage therapists near every corner, and the nightlife is entertaining.  

There are several cafes and hotel lounges which offer you a great Wifi connection and a quiet atmosphere when you want to work.

Between my experiences, I’d recommend working from the city’s hotel lounges, as these spots offer a better atmosphere and less people.

I feel that locals and tourists alike have an aversion for visiting hotels they’re not staying at, which is a shame since these places offer the best views and ambience.

In Thailand, the prices are relatively affordable for a meal or drink wherever you go, and if you need to work for a few hours, the return on value is more than worth it.

I am by no means a foodie, but if there are two countries which I can strongly recommend to visit when it comes to cuisine, it’s Japan and Thailand. The former destination gets expensive while the latter is unique in that the street carts are just as good as the five-star restaurants.

Tom Yum Soup became my go-to meal by the end of my stay, and Thai food is overall delectable for its varied spices, pastes, herbs, veggies, curries, and seafood.

As Australian chef David Thompson has said, unlike other countries, Thai cooking is “about the juggling of disparate elements to create a harmonious finish.”

I feel the same way when it comes to concocting my Coconut Cocktails.

Though Thailand is becoming overwhelmed by tourism in the past decade, it’s a great introduction for anyone who’s pursuing their first steps into a digital nomad lifestyle.

Half the fun is not knowing where you’ll end up next.

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Travel

Hiking an Urban Fortress

“From highrises to urban enterprises, a touch of nature is always good for the Seoul.”

In the center of Seoul, north of the Hangang River, lies the sprawling Seoul Fortress Wall. Built in 1396, there are 8 gates total which run for near a 20-kilometer path around Seoul.

They all possess a similar aesthetic and serve as guiding posts if you’re up for a hike. If short on time, I recommend heading east of the wall and exiting Dongdaemun station so you can check out the Dongdaemun Design Plaza as well, which offers various exhibits throughout the year.

The Heunginjimun Gate is located here and rather easy to spot. From there, you follow the meandering path northward.

There are several viewpoints and cafes along the way which offer panoramic sights if you want to take a break.

The paths are leisurely and you encounter historically-renovated homes which provide you a perspective of how this area looked like decades ago. There’s also more colorful, family-run spots you can check out.

In contrast to the homogenous urban sprawl located south of the river in districts like Gangnam, these neighborhoods along the wall have much more distinct personalities.

For another Seoul Fortress trail, you can start south near Itaewon and head towards Namsan Tower.

Hiking over 500 steps to the top, you eventually reach the tower, which offers breathtaking views and is a popular spot for tourists.

Most my days I had no idea which way I was going to be honest and just followed the path my heart was set on traversing.

Though I lived in Seoul throughout my twenties, back then I wasn’t too into hiking. Going on these trails provides me a different image of Seoul, one in which history and urbanity collides. It all makes for enjoyable afternoons and I’d highly recommend checking out these trails for a day or two if you stop by Seoul.

Located nearby is also the more contemporary Cheonggyecheon stream, which is an 11-kilometer trail built in 2005.

As a massive urban renewal project, it received criticism during its construction phase for costing the government around $900 million. Today, it’s viewed as a popular destination for both locals and tourists alike, restoring what was once a polluted stream covered by concrete in the 1950s.

These walks may not cure your hangover from last night’s soju but they will offer a brief respite as you prepare yourself for another evening of Korean barbecue.

Overall, these types of revitalization efforts in Seoul have been viewed with widespread acclaim, adding a touch of soul to a concrete jungle.

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Horse Backing Mongolia

“To understand the life of a nomad, you must see it through their eyes, feel it through their movements, and live it through their experiences.”

I first traveled to Mongolia almost a decade ago and it has forever left a lasting imprint, serving as an impetus which gave me reassurance to pursue my nomadic lifestyle today.

In our modern paradigm of planning every step of our future, there’s something to be said for those who arrange their lives according to the capricious sentiments of the winds and the weather. They accept what the present holds, and move accordingly. One morning may bring you sun, while the next brings you snow.

Regardless, you keep moving…

The Mongolians on the steppes are rough, rugged, and raw. And what makes them so hardy is they have no idea they are.

Waking up as the sun rises, you snap out of your hangover to gear yourself up for the day that lies ahead. We got another eight hours to ride so let’s get moving.

What’s interesting as a tourist is that I have no idea where I’m going to sleep that night.

“Who will we meet?” I ask my guide. He says he’s not sure but has a rough idea of where we can go and who we can visit.

So this is how you spend your days: horse backing for several hours as you come across a ger, open its door, drink their tea, catch up on local news, and carry on.

The next day you may find yourself helping a local setup his ger or pack it up, as they get ready to head to their next destination, going where there are fresh pastures for their goats.

Though you don’t ever sleep at the same place, there’s a routine that sets in after the third day or so. You adjust to the free-flowing nature of these nomads and the unplanned nature of the day ahead becomes refreshing, as you meet family after family, get a glimpse into their lives, sleep, wake up, say your goodbyes, and carry on.

On some days you may find yourself goat herding…

On other days, you may find yourself sleeping alone in a cabin. The cabins are much colder inside than the gers because of the gaping holes between some panels. So what do you do? Go outside, collect wood, and build a fire to last the night…

Then there are those random moments where you may meet a local, chat it up, and he offers you to go off-roading for a few nights. So what do you do? Ask him if you can drive in exchange for providing the liquor…

Speaking of liquor, the beverage of choice in Mongolia is Chinggis Vodka (named after Genghis Khan). I had never heard of the brand before but I got to know it well by the end of my stay. It’s surprisingly pleasant and goes down smooth, akin to a decent vodka.

When you’re not drinking alcohol, you’re brewing tea by the river.

Or interacting with students at a local school.

While at night testing your strength:

In our ever more conscientious consuming culture, what I noticed after spending a few weeks with Mongolians is that they waste nothing. You eat everything that’s given to you, and at times prepare meals yourself as you strike a goat’s head with a metal rod to ensure it a quick death. Then you skin and knead its organs for consumption. Even the hooves and head are consumed, to be boiled in a stew.

All of this makes for quite the experience and I highly recommend others to go check out Lake Khovsgol for an authentic Mongolian excursion.

This is one of those places that has yet to be populated by tourism so the local culture is intact and truly feels like you’re getting a genuine experience.

“A true nomad won’t be found in the city, for the presence of too many will perturb his instincts. No, he is found in nature, the only refuge which beckons him to go his own way.”

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True Romance: Europe

Prague

“Romance is akin to a fine wine. The pleasure derives from as much the flavor as it does the environment in which we’re enjoying it.”

As a young backpacker, let’s be honest: a primary reason why we travel is to engage in the occasional tryst or rendezvous, be it of the one-night variety or to last a lifetime.

Athens

We’re interested in the people we meet and, ideally, we hope to meet people we’re attracted to. In Europe is where I’ve had some of my most romantic encounters.

Looking back, I realize it was the atmosphere of these encounters that made these memories so unique: be it sipping wine until daybreak under a bridge by a canal, meeting someone on the train cabin right next to yours, or hanging out at a café where the ambience strikes a different chord from what we’re accustomed to.

Lisbon

Non-Europeans tend to have a romanticized view of the continent. For many of us, exploring Europe has been on our bucket list since childhood. While other destinations can offer history or modernity, European cities are great at offering both: providing leisure as we peruse landmarks in the day and seek fun at night. Either way, we can explore in comfort and style.

Ibiza

With an abundance of travelers in Europe, it’s easy to mingle with both tourists and locals alike. In particular, southern Europe and its Greek Islands are beautiful in the spring and summer, with an abundance of accommodations available to enjoy stunning views.

Adriatic Sea
Fira

Simply put, Europe is romantic. And a great reason why is because of the historic nature of its cities: of cobblestone bricks, centuries-old apartments and cafes, and monuments which have endured even after warfare and strife.

History is romantic. And Europe has plenty of it.

Paris

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King’s Landing: Dubrovnik

“Once built to keep foreigners afar, forts today serve as landmarks which can’t keep us out.”

After enjoying the series Game of Thrones for several years, I knew the next time I was in Europe I had to check out King’s Landing, in present-day Croatia.

Dating back to the 7th century, Dubrovnik was under the protection of the Byzantine Empire and later the Republic of Venice. Beginning in the 14th century, it became a free state and a center for diplomacy and wealth. As late as 1991, the city was besieged by the Yugoslav People’s Army until it became known for what it is today: a Mediterranean tourist destination and a hotspot for Hollywood filming.

I find Dubrovnik’s history fitting for King’s Landing since the territory underwent centuries of strife itself, between a French occupation, Austrian rule, and Yugoslavian control.

As a tourist, journeying its city walls and gaining a view from higher ground is beautifully scenic.

For an even higher vantage point, take the 4-minute cable car ride 2500 feet up, which serves as a great juxtaposition between past and present engineering feats. You’re also welcome to hike the hill’s trails, which takes about an hour either way.  

On the ground level, strolling within the walls lends itself to a sense of “Old Europe”, and it’s amazing to think its restaurants and cafes today were besieged just decades earlier. It gives humanity hope, in that relics of war have turned to cultural heritage sites today.

I rented an apartment within the city walls for a few days to enjoy afternoon walks around the area and to get a feel for the local vibe. The streets turn eerily quiet at night, with most of Dubrovnik’s night life existing outside the Old Town walls.

For a day trip, I recommend taking a ferry to Lokrum Island, where a monastery and a botanical garden still exist.

But be aware. Local legend has it the island is cursed, from when Benedictine monks were forced to evacuate from here centuries ago.

The myths add to the enchantment of Lokrum, as you stroll through its meandering trails. The infamous Iron Throne from the TV series is located on this island as well.

When bored with sightseeing, spend a night or two at a seaside hotel outside the Old Town so you can enjoy the sunset views and leisurely pace of the city.

With a glass of wine in hand, it makes for a charming evening.