Tag: travel

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Travel

King’s Landing: Dubrovnik

“Once built to keep foreigners afar, forts today serve as landmarks which can’t keep us out.”

After enjoying the series Game of Thrones for several years, I knew the next time I was in Europe I had to check out King’s Landing, in present-day Croatia.

Dating back to the 7th century, Dubrovnik was under the protection of the Byzantine Empire and later the Republic of Venice. Beginning in the 14th century, it became a free state and a center for diplomacy and wealth. As late as 1991, the city was besieged by the Yugoslav People’s Army until it became known for what it is today: a Mediterranean tourist destination and a hotspot for Hollywood filming.

I find Dubrovnik’s history fitting for King’s Landing since the territory underwent centuries of strife itself, between a French occupation, Austrian rule, and Yugoslavian control.

As a tourist, journeying its city walls and gaining a view from higher ground is beautifully scenic.

For an even higher vantage point, take the 4-minute cable car ride 2500 feet up, which serves as a great juxtaposition between past and present engineering feats. You’re also welcome to hike the hill’s trails, which takes about an hour either way.  

On the ground level, strolling within the walls lends itself to a sense of “Old Europe”, and it’s amazing to think its restaurants and cafes today were besieged just decades earlier. It gives humanity hope, in that relics of war have turned to cultural heritage sites today.

I rented an apartment within the city walls for a few days to enjoy afternoon walks around the area and to get a feel for the local vibe. The streets turn eerily quiet at night, with most of Dubrovnik’s night life existing outside the Old Town walls.

For a day trip, I recommend taking a ferry to Lokrum Island, where a monastery and a botanical garden still exist.

But be aware. Local legend has it the island is cursed, from when Benedictine monks were forced to evacuate from here centuries ago.

The myths add to the enchantment of Lokrum, as you stroll through its meandering trails. The infamous Iron Throne from the TV series is located on this island as well.

When bored with sightseeing, spend a night or two at a seaside hotel outside the Old Town so you can enjoy the sunset views and leisurely pace of the city.

With a glass of wine in hand, it makes for a charming evening.

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Travel

Nepali Shaman: A Vow of Silence

“In silence lies maturity; a sense of the timeless where wisdom meets reverence.”

To the left, is a Nepali shaman. As a man of spirituality, he has left our realm, making a vow of silence as he focuses on his meditations and guides the dead into the afterlife. For some holy men, these vows can last as long as a dozen years.

Located along the Bagmati River of Kathmandu, lies the funeral pyres of Pashputinath temple, where the dead are cremated.

Context of Kathmandu in relation to other historic sites.

The Bagmati river eventually joins the Ganges, which is considered one of the holiest bodies of water on this planet. Like its currents, the pyres here are constantly alit, symbolizing the ebb and flow of human life, as we realize how transient our existence is.

But, for Hindus, death is a process of life, one serving to balance the other.

The temple here honors Shiva, the Hindu Lord, god of destruction and transformation; underlying Hindu beliefs in reincarnation and karma.

Marigold flowers surround the body, which are commonly displayed for all ceremonial occasions in this region and India. To Hindus, marigolds are considered the “flower of the soul,” and are a sign of auspiciousness and trust in the divine.

The crowds here are quiet and respectful, a mixture of the bereaved, locals, and tourists.

The oldest son, if there is one, will walk around the pyre then light the kindling near the deceased’s forehead, which is symbolically important since Hindus believe from the mouth is where our spirit is released.

Once the body is lit, it will be covered with wet straw, which creates smoke and conceals the body from view during the cremation process. When this process is done, the family will collect the remaining ashes and scatter them into the river below, thereby finalizing the purification process for the deceased’s soul.   

Having traveled here years ago, I do not remember how I got here or what I did afterwards. Nor do I remember what I did the day before or after. I do remember witnessing this process however. Even if one is not religious or a Hindu, there is a certain beauty and reverence that underlies the process of death in ancient cultures, as you realize these sacred rites have existed for thousands of years.

These types of moments are unique in the sense that you get a chance to glimpse into the lives of those so different from your contemporary western upbringing. I first tried to learn more about Hindu customs to get an idea of what I was witnessing, then I thought about what my life would be like if I had been raised with such beliefs?

Such thoughts make you question your own religious background and upbringing, not in a negative manner, but more so you begin to ponder if there are other equally valid interpretations to life beyond the scope you were born into.  

Though I may not know much about spiritual devotion, I will respect most near anyone who has given up their worldly life and made a vow of silence for years on end. His insights into humanity will vastly differ from my own.

Not all of the holy men here possess such devotion however. Like certain preachers in the west, some are more in it for the hustle; earning their livelihood from tourist donations. I do not view such holy men as negative either. Instead, I give them a grin and a smile, as they remind me how much we still share in common across cultures.

“Some are in it for the faith, others for the grind; Some want a piece, while others want peace of mind.”

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Travel

Uzi Island

“It’s probably a name you’ve never heard of or a place you imagined existing.”

I’ve traveled to several remote locations in my life, and Uzi Island is memorable because the natural elements still reign supreme, as the locals adjust their lifestyle accordingly. To picture Uzi Island is to get a glimpse of how Zanzibar Island was like centuries ago, without all its recent development.

Regarding its locals, there is about 6000 people living here, mainly as fishermen or farmers.

Yet, there is not a single bar, restaurant or hotel in sight, revealing how seldom tourists travel here. There is a school in the area, but that’s about it in terms of landmarks.

The school

Located in the south of Zanzibar, Uzi Island can only be reached by boat or by vehicle during low tide.

Center-South

Either way, you cross its dense mangrove forests, which is a memorable excursion in of itself.

Mangrove forest during high tide
During low tide

While Zanzibar is a tourist mecca for those traveling to East Africa, less than 1% probably traverse this far south. The northeast and northwest are the hotbeds for tourism here.

Spending my days in locations like Uzi Island is hypnotic in the sense that nothing changes from day-to-day but the weather. There is no urge to turn its scenic locations into hotels, build its economy, or to make the most of its resources. With so much of human desire driven by exploitation of our environment, it feels comforting to know places like Uzi Island exist where that drive remains muted.

Daily market
Spinning fabrics

On a personal level, this creates a sort of tension within myself. As I’m reaching middle age, I know I need material accumulation for myself to have a successful future, yet I feel an aversion to it, as I see how people live in remote locations in such peace with their environment. Though poverty is prevalent, the drive to suicide or depression is nonexistent in these locales.

So what should I do? Spend the next twenty years accumulating as much capital as I can, or return to the city realizing that so much of what occupies our mind is a façade? I don’t know the answer to these questions, and I think it’s up to each individual to make that decision themselves.

The only recommendation I can give is that I hope young individuals get the opportunity to travel to such remote locations on their own so they can re-tune their rhythms to nature rather than the market.

The lives here are as worthy as our own, and I’m thankful for such experiences as they’ve widened my understanding regarding the breadth of human experience.

This world is big. Locations like Uzi Island abound everywhere; it’s on us to decide are such locations meant for development or should we leave them as is?

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Travel

Kyoto Unique

Eikan-do

“Contrast makes life vivid.”

Kyoto is a city of contrasts, in which the traditional collides with the present, roads bustle near serene gardens, colorful kimonos dot the streets amidst a sea of grey and green, and geishas scurry to teahouses in the evening while businessmen stumble home from whiskey houses in the morning.  

As more businessman than geisha, I found myself stumbling to my hotel on several late nights, forgetting its location as I was in a daze from swirling too much Suntory and Nikka whiskey. Though most bars close by 2AM, the smaller, local joints stay open till much later if patrons are still seated. When I picture Japan, I think of polite society — and nothing is more polite than allowing a patron to enjoy his bottle till it’s finished.

Though Kyotolites speak little English and my Japanese abilities are nonexistent, the conversations were pleasant and many of the bars were family-run which always adds to the ambience and distinctness to a neighborhood.

The Japanese are bounded by a sense of mutual trust and duty, which is evident in how very few bikes have locks attached to them at night. They trust that no one would steal them, for who would do such a thing?

For visitors, Kyoto is frequently rated as one of the most bicycle-friendly cities in Asia due to the sheer number of local bikers and its relatively flat landscape with grid-like design making it easy to navigate.

But what would biking be without interesting destinations to visit?

Kinkaku-ji
Ryoanji Rock Garden

And what makes Kyoto one of my favorite cities is its uniqueness; there’s nothing quite like it and I have no idea what other city I can compare it to, from its origins as the birthplace of kaiseki cuisine (in which 6-15 dishes are served) to its historic temples and rock gardens.

Taking a 2-3 hour stroll through Fushimi Inari as you glance at locals making crafts, or taking a shorter walk through the Philosopher’s Path to enjoy the view of Cherry Trees, is as quaint and peaceful as life gets — all of which makes it understandable why Kyoto has the 4th longest life expectancy out of Japan’s 47 prefectures (at 84.38 years).

Fushimi Inari

Kyoto is often considered the cultural heart of Japan and what’s beautiful is that, for a modern city, its traditions are still living, from the attire of its locals to the architecture of its temples — a sense of the past is ever-pervading and it’s not too difficult to imagine how life was like here centuries ago, something that is incredibly rare for a contemporary city to maintain.

Old & New

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Travel

Scuba, Sun, & Sipidan

“While we look to the stars to gleam our future, it is the depths of the oceans that unveil our past. For it is in these channels, we gain an inkling of our current selves.”

Having spent much of my travels trekking across various terrain, I began to feel an inkling for something different. While the beauty of landscapes and cityscapes leaves one in awe, what lies below is a bit of a mystery. It is from the cajoling of scuba enthusiasts that I decided to give it a go and googled, “Best diving spots in the world.”

What immediately captured my attention was Sipidan Island, purely because of the sheer number of aquatic life I saw from its images. Located in the heart of the Indo-Pacific Basin, Sipidan has one of the most robust marine ecosystems in the world, with over 3000 species of fish.

But how does one go about learning how to scuba dive? It can’t be too difficult to find an operator, right? So it is on a whim I bought a plane ticket to Borneo to figure it out. When I plan my trips, all I do is purchase the plane ticket. Where I stay, who I meet, I leave up to serendipity and my intuition to guide me. This makes my arrivals at airports a thrilling experience because I have no idea how my trip will unfold, or even where I’m going to sleep for the night.

This also allows me to negotiate better deals, especially in developing countries where prices are rarely fixed, unlike the rates advertised online. Naturally, guides and operators are much more willing to offer steep discounts in-person. The only suggestion I’ll give is to speak to the owners or management directly, as employees will usually not have the interest or authority to negotiate rates. Mom-and-pop shops will give you the best deals, especially at boutique hotels where they’ll be willing to throw in upgrades to suites since travelers often don’t rent them.

To keep the coral reefs pristine, Sipidan does not allow people to stay past 3PM on the island, though they have increased their permit allotment to 176 divers per day (as of 2019). No overnight accommodations exist. Instead, we stay at Mabul Island which is about 14 kilometers away. And it is here where you learn how to dive for beginners.

The process to get a license was far more expedient and lax than I had imagined. The first day of training is spent in the resort pool practicing, while the next two days are spent diving Mabul Island which offers some unique sights as well.

My stay happened to coincide with a turtle-tagging excursion, which I had the fortune to be invited to. The speed of the divers was impressive as they ensnared turtles and roped them. The team of professionals keeps track of turtle population figures, migration patterns, and growth rates.

Then it was off to Sipidan…

Sipidan From Above
Its Dive Sites

The most popular dive site surrounding Sipidan is Barracuda Point (which is considered a top-10 dive site in the world), while the most unique one is Turtle Tomb because you get the opportunity to go cave diving. Turtle Tomb got its moniker from the unfortunate skeletal remains observed of sea turtles who didn’t manage to find their way out. Plunging into these depths and entering the various caverns feels otherworldly, like you’re living a movie scene.

But my most indelible memory is seeing all the jack tuna and barracudas, as thousands will swarm around you. Though it’s completely sensible — but not something you think much about as a land dweller — what immediately struck me when I was underwater is the sheer speed at which schools of fish travel. They envelop you like a hurricane and, as some of the fastest species of fish in the world, tuna and barracudas will dart at upwards of 40 mph as they zip right past you.

You realize how out of your element you are underwater. The currents are strong in several of the dive spots in Sipidan, however, so it feels like you’re flying through the ocean at times. It all makes for quite the experience.

Looks like one massive aquarium:

Diving all day is taxing. And after your 4th dive, you’re ready to call it a day and happy to head back to land. But, after a week spent orangutan trekking, I had the itch to return to Sipidan to give it a go one last time for a third day of diving its various drop points.

Though nothing compares quite like your first experience trying something new, I enjoyed my return — as I foresaw it as unlikely I will ever return to this fascinating destination.    

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Travel

Cityscapes

Los Angeles

“To the city goes excess: where our primordial drives have full reign to unveil their carnal selves.”

Far removed from nature as we conceptualize it, lies cityscapes which show humanity’s ingenuity to redefine and design landscapes to serve purposes we see as fit for human society, be it the sprawling concrete jungles of Asia or the historical centres of Europe.

Saigon
Athens

Just like landscapes, cityscapes have two personalities: the day and night, which serve as a marked contrast in terms of what creatures come out and what role the environment plays. For most of us, we labor in the day to enjoy our leisure in the evening.

Medellin

Like human personalities, the city in the daytime reveals its persona, the view it tries to craft of itself; in the night, all the other elements come to play — and it is at night you can really get to know a city and its people in terms of what they eat, how much they drink, and what is the next spot we’re heading to?

Dubai

Some cities turn eerily quiet at night, like a Zurich or a Venice, while others are bustling like a Cairo or Istanbul, where noise pollution has been linked to multiple deaths.

Zurich, Vienna, and Oslo have the distinction of being the quietest major cities in the world, while at the opposite end Guangzhou, Delhi, and Cairo are the loudest.

Cairo

In the evening, East Asia is infamous for its elaborate room salons and high-end lounges residing underneath corporate basements while America and Europe are more renown for their rooftop digs.

Porto

Hotel-wise, Bangkok offers some of the most stunning views from its contemporary pool decks and sky lounges.

Bangkok

Though I enjoy marveling at the tranquil views of a city in the day, it is at night where the memories are made and humanity’s chaos is at its finest.    

Seoul

So cheers to the night!

Categories
Travel

Landscapes

Himalayas

“Landscapes are like people. The more unique they are, the greater the impression they’ll leave.”

What fascinates me most about traveling is to experience unique landscapes, from plains to deserts, rainforests to jungles, glaciers to mountains, coasts to cliffs. Seeing nature at its most natural leaves a sense of wonder at the sheer spectacle of how vast this planet is, and how much of it still remains sparsely populated by humans.

Rwanda and America

What’s also unique about landscapes is how they shape their inhabitants, affecting the perspectives and viewpoints of local culture, from Saharan nomads in the desert to Mongolian nomads in the steppes.

Mongolia

Island cultures are also fascinating, as they live at such a leisurely pace compared to the mainland, be it Zanzibar Island in comparison to Tanzania or Jeju Island to that of the Korean peninsula.

Zanzibar

All I know is that the less people there are, the more chill and down-to-earth individuals become. So, if you ever need to decompress and are afforded the time and funds, I recommend tuning out, logging off, and heading to unpopulated landscapes.

Tunisia

When you’re back in the city, close your eyes, and feel that serenity once again whenever you wish to relive it.

China

There’s no one to impress in the desert, no brand awareness in the jungles, and no keeping up with the Jones’ in the rainforests.  

Switzerland

Nature doesn’t judge. It lives.