“While we look to the stars to gleam our future, it is the depths of the oceans that unveil our past. For it is in these channels, we gain an inkling of our current selves.”
Having spent much of my travels trekking across various terrain, I began to feel an inkling for something different. While the beauty of landscapes and cityscapes leaves one in awe, what lies below is a bit of a mystery. It is from the cajoling of scuba enthusiasts that I decided to give it a go and googled, “Best diving spots in the world.”
What immediately captured my attention was Sipidan Island, purely because of the sheer number of aquatic life I saw from its images. Located in the heart of the Indo-Pacific Basin, Sipidan has one of the most robust marine ecosystems in the world, with over 3000 species of fish.
But how does one go about learning how to scuba dive? It can’t be too difficult to find an operator, right? So it is on a whim I bought a plane ticket to Borneo to figure it out. When I plan my trips, all I do is purchase the plane ticket. Where I stay, who I meet, I leave up to serendipity and my intuition to guide me. This makes my arrivals at airports a thrilling experience because I have no idea how my trip will unfold, or even where I’m going to sleep for the night.
This also allows me to negotiate better deals, especially in developing countries where prices are rarely fixed, unlike the rates advertised online. Naturally, guides and operators are much more willing to offer steep discounts in-person. The only suggestion I’ll give is to speak to the owners or management directly, as employees will usually not have the interest or authority to negotiate rates. Mom-and-pop shops will give you the best deals, especially at boutique hotels where they’ll be willing to throw in upgrades to suites since travelers often don’t rent them.
To keep the coral reefs pristine, Sipidan does not allow people to stay past 3PM on the island, though they have increased their permit allotment to 176 divers per day (as of 2019). No overnight accommodations exist. Instead, we stay at Mabul Island which is about 14 kilometers away. And it is here where you learn how to dive for beginners.
The process to get a license was far more expedient and lax than I had imagined. The first day of training is spent in the resort pool practicing, while the next two days are spent diving Mabul Island which offers some unique sights as well.
My stay happened to coincide with a turtle-tagging excursion, which I had the fortune to be invited to. The speed of the divers was impressive as they ensnared turtles and roped them. The team of professionals keeps track of turtle population figures, migration patterns, and growth rates.
Then it was off to Sipidan…
The most popular dive site surrounding Sipidan is Barracuda Point (which is considered a top-10 dive site in the world), while the most unique one is Turtle Tomb because you get the opportunity to go cave diving. Turtle Tomb got its moniker from the unfortunate skeletal remains observed of sea turtles who didn’t manage to find their way out. Plunging into these depths and entering the various caverns feels otherworldly, like you’re living a movie scene.
But my most indelible memory is seeing all the jack tuna and barracudas, as thousands will swarm around you. Though it’s completely sensible — but not something you think much about as a land dweller — what immediately struck me when I was underwater is the sheer speed at which schools of fish travel. They envelop you like a hurricane and, as some of the fastest species of fish in the world, tuna and barracudas will dart at upwards of 40 mph as they zip right past you.
You realize how out of your element you are underwater. The currents are strong in several of the dive spots in Sipidan, however, so it feels like you’re flying through the ocean at times. It all makes for quite the experience.
Looks like one massive aquarium:
Diving all day is taxing. And after your 4th dive, you’re ready to call it a day and happy to head back to land. But, after a week spent orangutan trekking, I had the itch to return to Sipidan to give it a go one last time for a third day of diving its various drop points.
Though nothing compares quite like your first experience trying something new, I enjoyed my return — as I foresaw it as unlikely I will ever return to this fascinating destination.
