Tag: digitalnomad

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Moroccan Mosques, Sunsets & Souqs

Essaouria

“Another day has passed, another sun has set; Like sands in hourglass, one day we’ll all get swept.”

Compared to other Arabian countries, Morocco is known for being one of the most tolerant, stable and safest. As a result, it has surpassed Egypt in the past decade as the most visited country in Africa, with nearly 13 million visitors annually. It’s close proximity to European countries like Spain and Portugal also makes it an easy plane or ferry trip away.

Of all the countries I’ve traveled to, Morocco probably tops my list in terms of being the most randomly inspired. One afternoon while at my friend’s house, I perused through his mother’s catalogue of Korean Vogue and Cosmopolitan magazines while I was doing my thing in the bathroom. While flipping through the pages, what immediately caught my eye were pictures of the Jemaa el-Fnaa market place in Marrakesh’s medina quarter. Within that instant, I knew I had to check it out and, sure enough, within a year I was there.

In life, instances like these are the most vivacious and pure — when you have a moment of inspiration, then go out and live it.

I flew into Casablanca and stayed at a colorful residence by the ocean.

When arriving at Hassan II Mosque, which is the 7th largest active mosque in the world, I came upon a celebratory scene on my first day out, one in which the locals were cheering from their vehicles, waving flags as they passed by.

I’m guessing the local soccer team had just won a major victory as the entire town was lively and people stayed out into the night. Either way, it made for an interesting arrival to a country you’ve never been.

Inside the mosque, the scene was quiet and of reverence.

So I got down on my knees and sent a prayer back home as well.

While walking the streets of Essaouria, which is a 250-mile drive south of Casablanca, I met a boy who wanted me to take a picture of him. It was a notable memory because before I took the shot, he looked around the ground for something to hold up, as if to show his pride. He ended up picking a rock and held it up against his chest.

When I come across children like this in developing nations, it’s a bittersweet feeling. The interactions are pure but you realize how little they have in comparison to their counterparts in wealthier countries.

Of course, sometimes they ask for money but more often they’re just fascinated in meeting a foreigner and filled with wonder. As we get older, we lose that sense of childlike curiosity. These children serve as a reminder in my travels of how blessed I am — and how as a global citizen it is also my responsibility to give back.

Essaouria was designated a World Heritage Site in 2001 and is famous for its riads (bed-and-breakfasts) and artisans. In fact, the whole country of Morocco is known for its crafts, whether that’s its tanneries and ceramics or rugs and woodwork.

A Local Tannery

My next stop in Morocco was to Marrakesh, a city full of vibrant colors and mosaics set against the drabness of the desert.

Majorelle Garden

When I arrived in town, I stayed at a friend of a friend’s hotel. I forget the exact backstory of the hotel’s creation, but it was formerly a palace which they had converted into a hotel. I had arrived before they had officially opened but they were fully staffed in preparation. So it felt odd in a way, as there were no other guests. Once I arrived in or out of the hotel, all staff eyes were fixed on me. As a creature of the night, I had a very nocturnal sleeping schedule and wouldn’t return till around 6AM on most nights. They must have found me a peculiar guest.

Out of all of Morocco’s cities, Marrakesh is known for its nightlife, and I made the most of it.

But beyond the frivolities of these nights, what I takeaway most from my experience in Morocco is the hospitality of Kiasa, the daughter of the hotel owners. Out of all my travels, there are few individuals who have treated me with such grace and hospitality. It is these types of interactions that are good for the soul, adding a touch of warmth to what at times can be a cold world.

Sometimes referred to as the Daughter of the Desert, Marrakesh is a destination I would like to return again in the future to further explore its culture and history.

These Feet are Meant for Traveling

But, alas, there are only so many free days we have in a lifetime. So we must take heed to make the most of them.

“All I ask a meeting, or greeting, I won’t be long; For time is a fleeting, one evening, we’ll all be gone.

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Boracay’s Clear Skies

“Bomb’s away! That’s sometimes how you gotta approach your next step. It’s the leaps in life that define our journeys.”

I flew into Boracay from Beijing, frustrated by an overnight delay and my flight fucked by Air China. I didn’t even know why I was here to be honest. Guess I thought it would make for a relaxing ending to my trip to Nepal and Tibet. While monasteries were the mainstay in Kathmandu and Lhasa, Boracay was a slice of beaches, clear skies, and adventure. And nothing was more adventurous than jumping 50-feet off a wooden plank into the ocean.

To prepare myself, the all-you-can-drink cocktails at Ariel’s Point provided me with that liquid courage.

And I took several shots each time I jumped. To envision what it’s like, get out the 5th floor of any elevator, look out the window, and imagine jumping. You feel the free fall for a few seconds.

My first jump felt like I got my nose finger-banged, as a surge of saltwater whooshed into my nostrils. I forgot to close them. I did three jumps in total from 50 feet, but memories of the first one are most vivid. I was pretty intoxicated by the 2nd and 3rd.

Ariel’s Point is fun no doubt, but it is tourist kitsch to the extreme, as you are surrounded by 50 Aussies and Europeans in their 20s looking for a good time. It’s a slice of Instagram heaven.

And I came prepared for the nights out.

My stay in Boracay was jarring compared to having just spent nine nights in Tibet, where the only tourists you meet are those interested in local culture and history steeped in thousands of years of tradition. Boracay is nothing like that, it’s more known for its white sands and being ranked #1 as the best island in the world by popular publications like Travel + Leisure and Conde Nast Traveler.

There’s lots of activities out here, I’ll give it that. It’s a haven for those into adventurous beach sports. I wanted to try skyboosting but the equipment was unfortunately out of order. So I did other activities like those below.

Unsatisfied with my accommodations from my first night, I found a place on the beach with sunset view in station 1. I negotiated 60% off the rate and I enjoyed my time hanging with the local Filipinos. A really friendly people.

When I came home from my beach activities in the afternoon, I liked chilling in my patio with my neighbor.

So would I ever come to Boracay again? I’m not too sure.

The food was delicious and the locals are amazing, but something about the vibe just felt too commonplace. It nowhere near left the same imprint as a location like Tibet. And, to be fair, I guess few could in the world.

If you want a break from your work routine and just want to chill out, it’s a nice place to go with a group of friends or a date. The peak season for good weather is long, from September-June. Boracay is broken down into 3 main stations for tourists. The first station has the best beaches while the second is better known for its eateries and nightlife. The third is for budgeters, offering cheaper accommodations.

Boracay overall is a relatively small island so there’s not much to do if you plan on staying for longer than a few days. The best moments I remember enjoying are its sunsets, as you realize you just might never witness them ever again from these shores.

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Devotion Tibet

“Culture doesn’t live in our monuments or artworks, it breathes in our practices and rites from generations past.

With the rapid ascent towards globalization, among these, how many traditions can we expect to last?”

Where once roamed over 5,000 monks in the early half of the 20th century, this square is now spare with only around 300 monks currently residing at the Sera Monastery. The 1959 Tibetan uprising against the Communist government left hundreds dead and the monastery almost beyond repair.

Yet, traditions must continue. The Sera Monastery is notable because the monks here participate in lively debate in the courtyard, as they slap their hands together and stomp their feet to make their point. They pose questions to each other and defend their arguments, each physical gesture signifying a specific point according to their rules of engagement. It was fascinating to observe, with the sheer ferocity in which they debated giving you pause.

In terms of the above figures I just cited, they are debatable, as I’ve looked online and read different numbers (I’m providing the figures my tour guide gave me). Regardless, it’s obvious that the adherents to the traditions here in Tibet are dwindling.

To provide context in terms of how I journeyed here, Tibet is one of the few destinations in which I had to plan for in advance, simply because one cannot travel here otherwise. I had to book a trip through a Chinese-approved travel agency to get a visa.

Hearing this, you might get the impression that your journey will be tightly regulated by the Chinese government. While that is true in some regards (as you can feel the ever-pervading presence of Chinese military and police), overall, I’d say it was less restrictive than I expected. Though your itinerary is regulated, daily life goes on and you are free to interact with whom you choose.

My guide, Dharma, was a Tibetan native in his early 30s and I wouldn’t say he was brainwashed by Chinese authorities to give us a sterilized view of Tibet. He had been jailed for a year as a result of his activism (for wearing a ‘Free Tibet’ shirt) and I enjoyed spending my nights chatting with him, while the rest of our tour group would go to bed.

When you picture a Tibetan, you have a certain image in your mind, right? Stereotypical in nature, wearing those red robes and living in solemn silence? That’s one thing traveling teaches me. Those stereotypes don’t hold true once you visit a country. People are much more similar across cultures than you ever expect. At night, Dharma would share his stories of dalliances with European tourists and about funny incidents such as when an Italian tourist invited him back to his hotel room and the man was naked.

We all have our way of earning a living, and it just happens that being a Tibetan tour guide is his.  

In the daytime, Dharma kept it professional. Traveling with me for my nine-day stay were three European tourists and a Colombian. Small in number, we got to know each other well as the days passed.  

One thing that struck me about being in Tibet is how advanced the infrastructure is. China is pumping billions of dollars into its development. So it’s a unique mixture of ancient temples and customs awash in new roads and buildings.

On my first day walking alone in the city, I came across Potala Palace. I had no idea it was so close to my hotel, being only a 15-minute walk away.

While strolling around its parameter for a couple hours, I saw Tibetans who would kneel in prayer as they made their way around it. This struck me as the most devoted action I have ever witnessed in my life — and what made it noteworthy was that they were dressed in everyday street clothes, not as monks. I spent about 10 minutes keeping my eye on two individuals in particular as they kneeled around the entire palace:

I couldn’t help but imagine, “What is going through their minds? And what was their childhood like? What beliefs and values do they hold that a foreigner like me will never be privy to?” I had just flown in from Nepal so it reminded me of the shamans at the funeral pyres of Pashputinath temple, some of whom make up to a 12-year vow of silence (https://nobleventures.net/nepali-shaman-a-vow-of-silence/)

Human culture is absolutely fascinating.

So what does it look like inside these monasteries?

Drepung Monastery

Here’s where the stereotypes somewhat ring true and you can kind of expect what you see, probably because these are the images of Tibet we’ve seen from travel channels or publications like National Geographic.

To ward off evil spirits

I preferred the pictures I took outside the monasteries because they provide a more human element to how life is here, whereas inside I felt the monks were more conscious of tourists taking pictures of them. Outside, you can see them on their breaks and more casual.

Fellow tourists

After a few days touring the monasteries in Lhasa, off we went on a road trip to see the more fun stuff, like Mount Everest and Karola Glacier. I feel Mt. Everest deserves its own entry so I’ll leave that for another time.

Karola Glacier

What left me fascinated about the interior of China is how vacant and raw its landscapes are.

Yamdrok Lake
Yellow River

In terms of size, China’s landmass is slightly larger than the United States so you can imagine what geographical wonders exist within its borders.

And with such an array of ethnicities and cultures, one can only hope their traditions will last for several more generations to come.

In the meantime, you can buy trinkets from the vendors along the highways you come across. I picked up quite a few to give to my coworkers.

When I look back upon my stay in Tibet, it was more of an educational experience than that of entertainment. I can see why there is so much historical lore from past visitors to the region — and it is somewhat sad that I heard more about Tibet in the news as a child growing up in the 90’s than I do today.

Back then, there was a kernel of hope in a Free Tibet whereas today that dream is quashed. Regardless, cultural rites endure. That’s one thing I learned about humanity. We endure.

And it is in our traditions that keep our culture breathing, living, and as the most enduring element to who we once were — and who we still are.

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Backpacker Beginnings in Paris

“Home may be where the heart is, but the voyage of self-discovery lies outdoors.”

The best decision I made in college was non-academic. It was choosing to study abroad at the American University of Paris (AUP). Regarding its campus, it was unique in that there wasn’t one. With a little less than 1000 students, there was no need for a centralized ‘campus’ in the American sense. The university rented buildings dotting around the center of Paris, the most unique one being a former church of which they made little renovations.

It felt out-of-place having class in a church; it reminded me of my Sunday sermons in childhood where you sometimes daydream and forget where you are for a moment, only now I awake to find myself in Paris.

My Parisian residence

Founded in 1962, AUP is one of the oldest American institutions of higher education in Europe. Regarding the curriculum, I don’t remember much from attending my classes. What has left an indelible imprint are my nights out roaming the streets of Paris and my backpacking trips to countries like Italy, the Netherlands, Germany, Spain, and Switzerland.

Venice’s Canals

Looking back upon my years in college, if I could re-do it — or give advice to teenagers — I would strongly recommend two things: One, go far. College is about adventure and new experiences so don’t choose a university that is nearby. Go far. Two, study abroad. And do it more than once.

Amsterdam’s Downtown

In your early 20s, you’re at the pinnacle of youth — at that age where you’re now old enough to make your own decisions, yet still young enough where you’re free to make mistakes without much derision. There’s a statement that resonates with me, something along the lines of failing yourself forward. But you can only fail if you avail yourself to new experiences. So go far.

Munich’s Oktoberfest

In many ways, though the periods were brief, my summer spent at UC Berkeley when I was 16 and my fall spent in Paris when I was 20 were much more of a collegiate experience than my four years spent at UC Irvine. Since I only lived a 20-minute drive away from Irvine, I was, in essence, exposed to very little new in my undergraduate education, to which I think ultimately stunted my development compared to how much I’ve grown in my travels.

Barcelona’s Gaudi Architecture

As someone who has been an international nomad for six years now, I can confidently say that the person I am today is far different in his perspective and understanding of the world than the teenage version of me born and raised in Orange County.

It’s one thing to know the world is big from glancing at a map or perusing a globe, it’s an entirely different thing to go out and actually experience that vastness yourself. While some are in dismay that there are no ‘new worlds’ to explore, my response is what difference does it make to you if you’ve never been there? To you, it will feel new because it is new.

Snowboarding Swiss Alps

“Home may be where the heart is, but the voyage of self-discovery lies outdoors.”

So go far and stay long. You will never return home the same person. You’ll gain a much more fundamental education, far more important than that of history or culture, you’ll discover who you are.

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Kuala Lumpur, Nothin’ More?

Skyline from the rooftop pool

“Trips are like books: Sometimes the plot is hollow, the meaning tangential, and the conclusion arrives without much climax.“

Have you ever traveled to a place that wasn’t bad but didn’t leave much of an impression? In our ever-evolving world of social media pizzazz, we like to present our travel experiences as better than they are.

But, sometimes, when we look back on a trip it has no rhyme or reason, underscoring the random nature of our existence. That’s how I would describe my 3-week stay in Kuala Lumpur. I have nothing against the city and enjoyed my time visiting Malaysian friends who I had met from other destinations, but I’m not sure how else I could describe my trip.

It started off rather ominously. I flew into Malaysia from Africa to visit my brother and his wife on vacation, then he promptly flew out 2-days later after a trivial dispute with his wife. I then got a new client from my company and had to work at a feverish rate to meet a 5-day deadline in time for New Year’s, of which I celebrated just as randomly as well.

Happy New Year?

I’ll unlikely ever start off a trip like this again, but it does leave a unique imprint, if nothing else. Having spent 15-hour days working behind a screen, the best part of my stay was having a decent view.

That’s probably my biggest takeaway: Hours of staring away into the city skyline while feverishly working; drinking whiskey to keep me inspired and coffee to keep me up.

Though Malaysia is considered slightly more expensive than some of its Southeast Asian neighbors, it’s still relatively affordable out here and the local cuisine offers a good mix of Malay, Chinese and Indian cuisine, with those three ethnicities also comprising the vast majority of Kuala Lumpur’s population: at 46%, 43%, and 10% respectively.

So is there anything much else about Kuala Lumpur? I don’t know… The purpose of my blog isn’t to write about fascinating destinations necessarily, but more to serve as a journal in which to catalogue my experiences. I think it’s okay to look back upon a trip or experience and not imbue it with much meaning. Life doesn’t always work out like that.

In terms of my travels, sometimes people are under the impression I’m always doing exciting things because I change destinations frequently. When you’re traveling almost year-round, however, a routine eventually sets in and you will experience several days where you do nothing; just eating at restaurants and walking the streets like any other local.

My day-to-day pace is much more like this than it is chock full of activities. I enjoy sleeping in, browsing the Internet, and doing the typical things anyone else would do in there daily routines. Though my scenery changes more frequently, the rhythm of my average day doesn’t. I think that’s an important realization for any aspiring digital nomad: the understanding that not every day or trip will be enthralling and that sometimes even traveling the world can get boring.

Having had this lifestyle for six years now, that’s the best advice I could give to the younger generation of backpackers. It’s okay to not update your social media regularly or feel the need to make the most of every moment. Embrace the Boring. As each trip has its downturns, there will also be its simple moments to relish.

So keep your head up!

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Dubai: A Modern Dichotomy

“The testament to humanity’s ingenuity is not found in our shores or forests but along our deserts, where we’ve turned what’s ornery into an oasis.”

When it comes to Dubai, I’m not sure how to describe it as it encompasses both of what I so much like and dislike about a contemporary city. On the one hand, it’s a convenient gateway between Europe, Asia, and Africa, with layover flights abounding as you enter to and fro for a few nights before moving on. But would I want to stay here a month?

It’s also very multicultural yet the races are distinctly divided, with the European expats (primarily Brits) working in finance and out at the clubs at night while the South and Southeast Asian migrants who built this city are generally hidden from view and only seen in the day working construction or at various fast-food and retail shops.

To see a city built in just fifteen years from a desert reveals the astonishing speed of human ingenuity, yet when cities emerge so hastily this gives little time for an authentic cultural history to develop.

Regarding its people, the citizens of Dubai are generally warm yet extravagant, revealing a vibe that both embraces western materialism yet shuns it due to their religious tenets, which serves as a dichotomy within itself.

I first traveled here in my twenties to see what all the fuss was about, as back in the 2000s Dubai was accomplishing extraordinary architectural strides. Since then, I have returned every now and then due to its convenient geographic location between continents.

Inside Ski Dubai. A modern wonder of ingenuity and excess.

Regarding rates, a stay at one of the many hotels here isn’t outlandish as you can find five-star locations for just under $200 a night. But the price of alcohol is, since the Emirates as a nation bans the sale of alcohol outside of hotels, lounges, and clubs. Because of this, make sure to pack a few bottles at duty-free before you enter, otherwise it’s $20 a drink wherever you go.

Would I still recommend checking out this city? Yes… If for nothing else, the architecture here is astounding and the Arabic culture is very different from what you experience in other Middle Eastern nations. I also recommend checking out Abu Dhabi, which has opened its own Louvre museum in 2017.

Burj Khalifa, tallest building in the world (828 meters)

Overall, the locals here are very hospitable, well traveled, and the country itself gives you an idea of how capitalism would look like under an Arabic model, with the Emirates being the highest and only Middle Eastern country ranked in the top-20 under the 2020 Index of Economic Freedom.

With all that money in the desert, they have the luxury to turn sand castles into concrete playgrounds.

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Thailand: Digital Nomad

“As a forerunner, chase the path you’re envisioning as opposed to the steps which already exist.”

Starting in 2015, I have spent about a third of my year traversing various countries, spending about a month each in every new destination, with the remainder of my time split between Korea and Tanzania. It’s fitting that the first destination I describe is Thailand, which is ranked by many travel sites as one of the best countries for digital nomads, be it the cities of Chiang Mai, Bangkok, or Phuket.

So what is a digital nomad?

It’s an individual whose job is not location-dependent, enabling them to travel freely. The most typical professions are those in IT or other tech-related industries. As an education consultant, my path to becoming a digital nomad followed a circuitous route. I quit my job at the end of 2014 to spend a year visiting home (California) and to travel through Central America, Europe and Africa.

I enjoyed my job as an education consultant and really enjoyed living in Korea, but I could see the path ahead of me if I stayed this course: I’d eventually start my own company, buy an apartment, settle down, and pop out a few kids. Though this path is what many strive for, I felt stifled by it, as I wasn’t quite ready to give up on my greater aspirations. As someone intensely driven by adventure and purpose, I chose to quit my job to return to Tanzania to build a nonprofit school and hopefully become a writer.   

I found this path far more appealing and suitable to my taste, although my family strongly disagreed (which is natural). At heart, I think to each his own and you have to chase the path you’re trying to create rather than embracing the one that comes most natural.

That sentiment captures the ethos of a nomad and, as proponents like Elon Musk state, if we really are living in a simulation than shouldn’t we approach life as a game? In no video game do you end from where you started; the epic and tales reside in the journey. And, so it is, in my thirties I chose to journey.

As I immersed myself in my travels, the companies I used to consult for became more open to my proposal of working online. Sometimes, you need to make the leap yourself for others to believe in the concept. Other times, quite frankly, they may not have a better alternative. Either way, go in the direction you want. These companies will still likely exist in a decade whereas my youth will not.

Regarding Bangkok itself, I had no specific reason why I chose this location. I was running out of options to be honest since I had by then (2017) visited the countries I wanted to check out. Having read so much online about the digital nomad lifestyle out here though, I felt I needed to revisit it from when I first vacationed here in my early 20’s.

The best word I can use to describe my lifestyle in Thailand is comfort. Thailand’s very comfortable for foreigners to have a longer stay in. The tourism infrastructure is great for travel, the cuisine is delicious, prices are affordable, the weather is generally favorable, the locals are friendly, it’s easy to meet fellow nomads, massage therapists near every corner, and the nightlife is entertaining.  

There are several cafes and hotel lounges which offer you a great Wifi connection and a quiet atmosphere when you want to work.

Between my experiences, I’d recommend working from the city’s hotel lounges, as these spots offer a better atmosphere and less people.

I feel that locals and tourists alike have an aversion for visiting hotels they’re not staying at, which is a shame since these places offer the best views and ambience.

In Thailand, the prices are relatively affordable for a meal or drink wherever you go, and if you need to work for a few hours, the return on value is more than worth it.

I am by no means a foodie, but if there are two countries which I can strongly recommend to visit when it comes to cuisine, it’s Japan and Thailand. The former destination gets expensive while the latter is unique in that the street carts are just as good as the five-star restaurants.

Tom Yum Soup became my go-to meal by the end of my stay, and Thai food is overall delectable for its varied spices, pastes, herbs, veggies, curries, and seafood.

As Australian chef David Thompson has said, unlike other countries, Thai cooking is “about the juggling of disparate elements to create a harmonious finish.”

I feel the same way when it comes to concocting my Coconut Cocktails.

Though Thailand is becoming overwhelmed by tourism in the past decade, it’s a great introduction for anyone who’s pursuing their first steps into a digital nomad lifestyle.

Half the fun is not knowing where you’ll end up next.

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Antigua: Colonial Spain in Central America

“Named after fire, water, and earth, the volcanoes of Antigua serve a straightforward response as to the forces in control.”

Designated as a UNESCO world heritage site, the highlands of Antigua are a great gateway into Guatemala as you explore its Spanish Baroque architecture and familiarize yourself with the country. Antigua is considered by Tripadvisor, “the best-preserved Spanish colonial city in Central America,” which in itself gives one a great reason to visit.

Facade of the El Carmen Church

Contrary to expectations, there are only a little over 35,000 residents in the city, which gives any nomad an idea of how exploring the city will feel. What stands out prominently are its old colonial churches.

St. James Cathedral San Joseph Parish

Beyond its churches, the city is easy to navigate as it has a square grid given its Spanish heritage, in which conquistadors first traversed the area in the 1500s. As ominous as these invaders were, the area has a history of also being plagued by earthquakes and volcanic eruptions, which also hint at its low population figures. The last major evacuation occurred in 2018 when the volcano, Fuego, erupted.

The central park is known as the city square and is a popular area to walk, where you see both locals and tourists roam. The tourism infrastructure is well-developed here, a popular destination for cruise ships from both the Atlantic and Pacific Ocean.

For the more adventurous, Antigua is a great entry-point to explore the interior of Guatemala. If only here for a day or two, there are several jewelry and souvenir shops which offer local wares, as well as more scenic spots to roam as you take in the splendor of the city.

There are also several historic boutique hotels here in which the staff is friendly. They’re willing to provide you an upgrade to a master suite if you cordially explain to them, “I just flew in… So why not?”

Coming home to making a fire always adds warmth to a nomadic experience.

And, so it is, I’ll recommend anyone flying into Guatemala City to spend a few days checking out Antigua, which is only an hour drive away. It’s not an authentic experience in the traditional sense, but it does give you a few nights of relaxation before you check out the rest of the country and its Mayan roots.

In the meantime, you can read up on where to go next from its many perched rooftop balconies and hammocks.

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Horse Backing Mongolia

“To understand the life of a nomad, you must see it through their eyes, feel it through their movements, and live it through their experiences.”

I first traveled to Mongolia almost a decade ago and it has forever left a lasting imprint, serving as an impetus which gave me reassurance to pursue my nomadic lifestyle today.

In our modern paradigm of planning every step of our future, there’s something to be said for those who arrange their lives according to the capricious sentiments of the winds and the weather. They accept what the present holds, and move accordingly. One morning may bring you sun, while the next brings you snow.

Regardless, you keep moving…

The Mongolians on the steppes are rough, rugged, and raw. And what makes them so hardy is they have no idea they are.

Waking up as the sun rises, you snap out of your hangover to gear yourself up for the day that lies ahead. We got another eight hours to ride so let’s get moving.

What’s interesting as a tourist is that I have no idea where I’m going to sleep that night.

“Who will we meet?” I ask my guide. He says he’s not sure but has a rough idea of where we can go and who we can visit.

So this is how you spend your days: horse backing for several hours as you come across a ger, open its door, drink their tea, catch up on local news, and carry on.

The next day you may find yourself helping a local setup his ger or pack it up, as they get ready to head to their next destination, going where there are fresh pastures for their goats.

Though you don’t ever sleep at the same place, there’s a routine that sets in after the third day or so. You adjust to the free-flowing nature of these nomads and the unplanned nature of the day ahead becomes refreshing, as you meet family after family, get a glimpse into their lives, sleep, wake up, say your goodbyes, and carry on.

On some days you may find yourself goat herding…

On other days, you may find yourself sleeping alone in a cabin. The cabins are much colder inside than the gers because of the gaping holes between some panels. So what do you do? Go outside, collect wood, and build a fire to last the night…

Then there are those random moments where you may meet a local, chat it up, and he offers you to go off-roading for a few nights. So what do you do? Ask him if you can drive in exchange for providing the liquor…

Speaking of liquor, the beverage of choice in Mongolia is Chinggis Vodka (named after Genghis Khan). I had never heard of the brand before but I got to know it well by the end of my stay. It’s surprisingly pleasant and goes down smooth, akin to a decent vodka.

When you’re not drinking alcohol, you’re brewing tea by the river.

Or interacting with students at a local school.

While at night testing your strength:

In our ever more conscientious consuming culture, what I noticed after spending a few weeks with Mongolians is that they waste nothing. You eat everything that’s given to you, and at times prepare meals yourself as you strike a goat’s head with a metal rod to ensure it a quick death. Then you skin and knead its organs for consumption. Even the hooves and head are consumed, to be boiled in a stew.

All of this makes for quite the experience and I highly recommend others to go check out Lake Khovsgol for an authentic Mongolian excursion.

This is one of those places that has yet to be populated by tourism so the local culture is intact and truly feels like you’re getting a genuine experience.

“A true nomad won’t be found in the city, for the presence of too many will perturb his instincts. No, he is found in nature, the only refuge which beckons him to go his own way.”